How to Repair a Damaged Hollow Core Door Posted: 17 Apr 2021 01:00 AM PDT Hollow core doors are much cheaper and more common than doors made of solid wood, but they are also a lot more fragile and prone to damage. While holes in your doors or unsightly scratches might seem difficult to repair, you can get them fixed up in no more than a day or two. Simply patch up holes or fill in the scratches before refinishing the surface and your door will look good as new in no time! [Edit]Patching a Hole or Crack - Cut away any loose or broken wood from around the hole or crack. Depending on how the door was damaged, there may be some loose splinters or fragments around the edges of the hole or crack. Rather than trying to repair these, use a utility knife to cut away any damaged wood until you're left with a clean hole free from rough edges.[1]
- Always cut away from yourself when working with a utility knife, especially when cutting through something sturdy like wood.
- You may need to make the hole or crack bigger before you can begin repairing it. It's much easier to repair a larger hole free from damaged wood than it is to repair a smaller one that's fragmented or broken.
- Pack the hole with paper towels. While the paper towels won't make the door stronger or repair it, they are an easy and affordable way to hold the insulation foam in place while it dries. Bunch up a few paper towels and stuff them around the bottom and sides of the hole or crack you want to repair.[2]
- Paper towels work as they are light enough to hold their own weight inside the door. If you don't have paper towels, use some tissue paper or something similarly light.
- Fill the hole with expanding foam insulation. Expanding insulation foam comes in a spray can with a long nozzle on the top. Point the nozzle into the hole or crack in your door and begin spraying. The foam will expand to fill the space inside the door, with any excess expanding outside the hole through the face of the door.[3]
- Expanding insulation foam should be available online or from your local hardware store. For a smaller space, a low-expansion type may be easier to handle.
- Leave the insulation foam to dry overnight. Once the insulation foam has filled in the hole or crack, it needs to dry all the way through before it can be cut or sanded down. Leave the foam to sit for 4 to 5 hours or ideally overnight so that it can dry completely.[4]
- Check the instructions on your own brand of insulation foam for more guidance on how long it will take to dry.
- Trim away the excess foam with a utility knife. Position a utility knife slightly above any protruding insulation foam so that it is flush with the face of the door. Run the knife down the face of the door to cut away any excess foam, trimming it until the foam sits no more than below the face of the door.[5]
- Apply a layer of auto-body filler for a strong repair. Mix together 2 parts of an auto-body filler and 1 part of a hardener catalyst and spread the mixture over the hole in your door. Use the edge of a putty knife to smear and press the mixture over the hole, filling in any gaps and making it roughly flush with the door.[6]
- Auto-body filler is a compound that will give you a very strong door, but it can be quite difficult to work with. It will normally come packaged with a hardener catalyst designed specifically to activate it. This product is available online or at your local hardware or auto store.
- Cover the hole with spackle for a quicker fix.[7] If you don't have auto-body filler, you can use spackle instead. Use a putty knife to scoop out some spackle and spread it over the hole in your door. Work in long, smooth strokes to smear the spackle over the door as smoothly and evenly as possible.[8]
- Spackle is readily available, affordable, and very easy to work with.
- Spackle is available online or from your local hardware store.
- Wait 1 hour for the surface to dry. Whether you repaired the door with spackle or an auto-body filler compound, it will take around 1 hour for your repair compound to dry completely. Leave the door to dry until it is hard to the touch.[9]
- Check the instructions on your spackle or auto-body filler compound for more information on how long it will take to dry.
- Sand down the surface of the door.[10] Use a sheet of coarse grit sandpaper, around 100- to 120-grit, to begin sanding down your repair compound. Sand off the spackle or auto-body filter until it is level with the surface of the door and it looks flat.[11]
- Sanding down the door will help you smooth out the repair job to make it less visible. However, it will rough up the surface around the hole or crack. To fix this and make the door look completely undamaged, paint or stain the door.[12]
[Edit]Repairing a Scratched Door - Use very fine grit sandpaper to remove loose splinters and paint. Use 320-grit sandpaper to sand down any areas where the paint is peeling and/or the wood is splintering. Clean up the scratched area so that you can patch it rather than piecing it back together.[13]
- If the wood is significantly splintered, wear heavy gloves while sanding to avoid injuring yourself.
- Apply a generous coat of wood filler to the scratched area. Squeeze or spread a small dollop of wood filler over each scratch on your door. Use your finger or a putty knife to spread the filler around and press it into the scratches. Try to achieve a smooth finish that is even and level with the rest of the door.[14]
- Wood filler is available online or from your local hardware store. It will either come premixed in a tube or in 2 separate parts that need to be combined before using it. Follow the instructions on your wood filler for the best results.
- Leave the filler to dry for 15 to 20 minutes. The filler needs to set up and fully adhere to the wood in order for it to repair the door. Once you have pressed filler into all of the scratches, leave it for 15 to 20 minutes to dry fully, until it is completely solid to the touch.[15]
- Check the instructions on your wood filler for more information on expected drying times.
- Sand down the wood filler with 320-grit sandpaper. Once the filler has dried, use very fine grit sandpaper to sand down previously scratched area. Work in smooth, deliberate strokes to remove any excess wood filler and flatten the surface of the door.[16]
- Painting over the sanded area will make any irregular bumps more obvious. Run your hand over the area you patched with wood filler to catch any areas that need more sanding and smoothing.
- Clean the area with a damp paper towel or sponge. Sanding the wood and paint around the scratched area can produce a significant amount of dust and debris that can ruin the look of the repaired door. Dampen a clean cloth or a paper towel and lightly wipe down the area to clean up any dust left behind.
[Edit]Refinishing a Hollow Core Door - Sand down the area you repaired and wipe away the dust. To make sure the paint or wood stain sticks evenly to the area you are painting or staining, use 220-grit sandpaper to sand down the repaired area. Use a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth to wipe away any dust or debris.[17]
- Dust will prevent the paint from sticking to the door properly, leaving an uneven surface. Clean away any dust before refinishing the door.
- Remove any hardware or hinges from the door. It's best to paint or stain the entire door to achieve an even finish, rather than only painting or staining the area you repaired. Use a screwdriver to remove the hardware from the door. You might need to remove the doorknob, hinges, or a strike plate near the base of the door.[18]
- If you want to remove the door from its hinges entirely, press a nail against the base of each hinge pin and use a hammer to pop out the pins. This will let you refinish the door elsewhere and make the job easier.
- Check the screws in each fitting or fixture to choose the right screwdriver to use. You should always remove and reattach fixtures to a hollow core door with a screwdriver, as an electric drill can easily damage the door.
- Alternatively, you could use painter's tape to tape off areas you don't want to paint over.
- Find paint or wood stain that matches the color of your door. Choosing the right color of paint or wood stain will make sure that the repaired door matches the rest of the doors in your home. Ask an employee at your local hardware store for some paint or wood stain samples or ask for help in choosing the right paint to match the color of your door.[19]
- While taking a picture of your door to help match the color might seem like a good idea, it won't always lead to a direct match. The lighting in your home, the type of camera used, and the way the picture is printed or displayed will all change the color.
- If you can, bring in a sample of the door to help match it — such as a piece of the door you cut away when first repairing it.
- Apply an even coat of paint or wood stain to the entire door. Use a broad, all-purpose paintbrush or a paint roller to apply a single coat of paint or wood stain to the door. Paint or stain any grooves or panels first, then paint long, even strokes over the rest of the door to avoid leaving visible lines.[20]
- If you're worried about making a mess, lay down a drop cloth or some old newspaper underneath the door before you begin painting.
- Leave the door to dry for 3 to 4 hours. Once you've applied the first coat, allow the door to dry for 3 to 4 hours. Even slight contact with the door can damage the finished look, so make sure everyone who might come in contact with it knows that it is still wet.[21]
- Check the instructions on your chosen paint or stain for more information on the expected time it takes for it to dry.
- Apply a second coat of paint or wood stain and let it dry. Each coat that you apply to the door will darken the color slightly and improve the look overall. Once the first coat has dried, apply a second coat to help obscure any imperfections visible from the first coat. Leave it to dry fully until the door is no longer damp or tacky to the touch.[22]
- Many interior paints and stains will take several days to cure completely. Be careful with your repaired door for 1 week after painting it to avoid damaging your coat of paint.
- You can apply as many coats of paint or stain as you want, but 2 or 3 coats will normally be plenty to make your door look fantastic.
- If the hole in your door is fairly large, it may be more effective to just replace the entire door.[23]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Patching a Hole or Crack - Utility knife
- Paper towels
- Expanding insulation foam
- Auto-body filler or spackle
- Putty knife
- 120-grit sandpaper
- 320-grit sandpaper
[Edit]Repairing a Scratched Door - 320-grit sandpaper
- Wood filler
- Putty knife
- Damp cloth or paper towels
[Edit]Repainting a Hollow Core Door - 220-grit sandpaper
- Paint or wood stain
- Broad, all-purpose paintbrush or paint roller
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Take off Fake Nails Posted: 16 Apr 2021 05:00 PM PDT Fake nails, such as acrylics or gel nails, can instantly take your natural nails from drab to glamorous. However, when you are ready to start over with a clean slate, you might not want to pay someone to take off the fake nails. Fortunately, you can remove fake nails at home using similar techniques that a nail technician would use, and your nails will be ready for a new look in no time! [Edit]Using Acetone-Soaked Cotton and Tin Foil - Trim down acrylic nails to reduce the surface area. If you have acrylic nails, trimming them down first will reduce the amount of surface area that the acetone needs to penetrate. This makes it easier for the acetone to loosen your nails. Cut the acrylic nails down to the level of your natural nails.[1]
- Don't trim your natural nails until after you have finished removing the acrylics.
- Use a coarse nail file to thin the acrylic or remove the gel topcoat. Use a back and forth motion on the top of acrylics where they meet your natural nails (near the cuticle bed) or all over the surface of gel nails. File until you expose the adhesive under your acrylics or remove the shiny protective coat of the gel nails.[2]
- Do not skip filing your nails! Taking the time to file will make it easier for the acetone to work and loosen your nails faster.
- Don't file down too far! You may end up removing part of your natural nail and this can put you at risk of a nail infection.
- Cut out 10 foil rectangles to wrap around the ends of your fingers. Use a pair of scissors to cut the foil. Each wrap should be about .[3]
- Check 1 before you make more. Ensure that the wraps are large enough to go all the way around your nails and the cotton ball or gauze. The ends of the foil need to overlap so that you can secure the wraps.
- Soak a cotton ball or gauze with acetone and place it over your nail. Add enough acetone to the cotton ball or gauze so that it is wet, but not dripping. Then, place the cotton directly over your nail.[4]
- For acrylics, make sure the cotton is centered over the area where you filed to expose the adhesive.
- For gel nails, make sure that the acetone-soaked cotton is covering the entire nail.
- Keep in mind that you can also use non-acetone nail polish remover, but it will take longer than using pure acetone.
- Wrap the foil around your nail to secure the acetone-soaked cotton. Place your fingertip onto the center of a foil wrap. Then, wrap the top of the foil over the tip of your nail and bring the sides up over your nail like a tent. Fold the ends over a few times to tighten the foil around your fingertip and the cotton.[5]
- Don't worry if the foil does not look as neat as the way they do it in the salon! As long as the foil is secure around your fingertips, the acetone-soaked cotton will stay put and do its work.
- Repeat this for each of your nails. Continue applying acetone-soaked cotton balls or gauze and wrapping your fingertips in foil until you have wrapped all of your nails. The last few wraps might be hard to apply since you will have tin foil on your other fingertips.[6]
- If possible, ask a friend or family member to help you with the last few wraps.
- Another option is to only process 1 hand or a few nails at a time.
- Wait 20 minutes to remove the wraps. You will not be able to do much while the wraps are in place, so plan to chill out for about 20 minutes. Watch a show, listen to some music, or just sit back and relax.[7]
- Because of the foil, you will probably not be able to interact with the touch screen on your phone for the next 20 minutes, so now's a good time to charge your phone!
- Use a cuticle pusher to scrape off the remaining adhesive or polish. After the time is up, remove 1 of the wraps. Try to pull off an acrylic by gently inserting the tip of a cuticle pusher between the acrylic and your natural nail. For gel nails, try to scrape off some of the polish using a cuticle pusher. If the acrylic or gel nail polish comes off easily, then remove the wraps 1 at a time and use the cuticle pusher to remove the adhesive or polish from each nail.[8]
- If the acrylic or gel polish will not come off easily, redo the wrap you just took off. Leave the rest of the wraps in place for another 5 minutes, and then check again.
- Remember, only remove 1 wrap at a time and scrape away the adhesive or gel polish immediately.
- Buff off any stuck-on bits of adhesive with a small foam buffer. After you have taken off all of the acrylics or gel nail polish, use a foam buffer to remove any remaining bits of adhesive or polish. Rub the buffer over each of your nails using gentle pressure and a back and forth motion.[9]
- You may need to buff a little harder in some spots to remove the adhesive or polish residue.
[Edit]Soaking Your Nails in Acetone - Cut down acrylic nails so that they are as short as possible. If you have acrylic nails, this will reduce the amount of surface area and make it easier for the acetone to loosen your nails. Trim your acrylic nails down to the level of your natural nails.
- Do not trim your natural nails yet! Wait until after you remove the fake nails to trim them.
- File down the surface of the acrylic or gel nail with a coarse nail file. Take a coarse grit emery board or nail file and rub it back and forth over the top of each of your nails. For acrylics, file the area where the acrylic meets your natural nail (near the cuticle bed) until the adhesive is exposed. For gel nails, file the entire surface of the nail until they are no longer shiny.[10]
- Acrylic nails sit on top of your natural nail, so it will be difficult for the acetone to penetrate the nail unless you file them down first. Likewise, gel nails have a clear topcoat that protects the polish. Filing down the acrylic or gel topcoat before soaking the nail will help to make this process quicker and easier.
- Fill a small dish with pure acetone. Use a shallow glass dish that is big enough to fit all of your fingertips into at 1 time. This size dish will likely have a 2 cup (480 mL) capacity. Fill the dish about halfway with pure acetone.[11]
- You can buy pure acetone in the nail supplies section of a drug or grocery store.
- You may also use a non-acetone nail polish remover if you prefer. It will just take longer than an acetone nail polish remover.
- Place the dish into a larger bowl of hot water. Warming the acetone will help to make it work faster and remove the nails more effectively. Get a dish that is about 2 times the size of your acetone dish and fill it about ¼ of the way full with very hot water from the tap. Then, place the acetone dish into the water-filled bowl.[12]
- Make sure that the water does not overflow into the acetone dish! Set the acetone dish into the water dish slowly. If it looks like the water will overflow, then pour some out and try again.
- Soak your nails in the acetone for 10 minutes. Dip your nails into the acetone up to the level of your cuticles and hold them there for 10 minutes. The acetone will loosen the adhesive holding on acrylic nails or it will dissolve the gel polish if you have gel nails.[13]
- To reduce the amount of acetone that contacts your skin, angle your fingers so that just the nails are immersed in the acetone.
- Remove your nails from the acetone and check to see if they are loose. Once the time is up, take your fingertips out of the acetone and check your nails. Insert the end of a wooden cuticle pusher into the area between your natural nail and acrylic and see if it comes off easily. Use the end of the cuticle pusher to gently scrape off any remaining gel polish. Do this for all of your nails.[14]
- If the acrylics are still hard to budge or if your gel nails are hard to scrape off, put your nails back into the acetone for a few more minutes.
- Scrape away the remaining adhesive or gel polish with a cuticle pusher. After you have finished soaking your nails and you can remove the acrylics or excess polish easily with a cuticle pusher, continue removing them. Remove all of the acrylics or scrape off all of the gel polish.[15]
- If you have acrylics, then you will also need to scrape off the remaining adhesive with a cuticle pusher.
[Edit]Removing Acrylics with Dental Floss - Be aware that this technique may damage your natural nails. This method of removing acrylic nails is not recommended by nail professionals. Using floss to remove your fake nails can result in pulling off part of your natural nail, which can be painful and possibly lead to an infection.
- Purchase dental flossers that are on a stick. These are widely available and they are perfect for removing fake nails. To make the process even easier, you may want to choose a brand that is meant for flossing between tightly-spaced teeth, such as Glide.[16]
- If you don't have or don't want to buy flosser sticks, then you may also use regular floss. However, you might need a friend to help you since you won't be able to keep the floss taut with only 1 hand.
- Use the toothpick part of the flosser to loosen the fake nail. The end of the flosser should be pointed. Stick this end under part of your acrylic to create a gap. Be careful not to pry up too much of the nail as you do this. Only lift the end of the acrylic slightly where it meets your natural nail.[17]
- Press the floss against your natural nail and move it under the acrylic nail. Position the floss against your natural nail where the acrylic nail begins. Then, press down and move the floss under the acrylic.[18]
- If you have someone helping you using regular floss, then have them hold the floss taut and press it against your natural nail.
- Use a back and forth motion to work the floss under the acrylic. Move the flosser back and forth like you would to floss your teeth. Hold the acrylic nail down with 1 finger to keep it still as you do this. Continue working the floss forward until you reach the end of your natural nail and the acrylic nail comes off.[19]
- Make sure that you go slow! If you go too quickly, then you may pull off part of your natural nail.
- Repeat the process to remove all of your acrylic nails. Continue to take 1 nail off at a time until you have removed all of them. After you are finished, trim, file, and buff your nails to clean them up. Then, do your nails as desired![20]
[Edit]Warnings - Pure acetone is flammable! Keep it away from heat and open flame.
- Pure acetone can stain or discolor surfaces and clothing. Cover your work surface with a towel before you get started and put on an old t-shirt.
- Never try to pull or peel off acrylic or gel nails without loosening them with acetone first! You may end up pulling off part of your natural nail, which can be extremely painful and may lead to an infection.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using Acetone Soaked Cotton and Tin Foil - Coarse nail file
- Pure acetone
- Tin foil
- Scissors
- Cotton balls or gauze
- Cuticle pusher
- Foam nail buffer
[Edit]Soaking Your Nails in Acetone - Coarse nail file
- Small shallow 2 cup (480 mL) capacity bowl
- Large 4 cup (960 mL) or more capacity bowl
- Pure acetone
- Warm water
- Baby oil (optional)
- Cuticle pusher
[Edit]Removing Acrylics With Dental Floss - Dental floss sticks OR regular floss and someone to help you
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Improve Math Skills Posted: 16 Apr 2021 09:00 AM PDT There's no doubt about it: math is tough. As a result, a lot of kids (and adults!) struggle with math at some point in their lives. By building up your skills and practicing every day, you can make math a little less frustrating and have a higher chance of success. Use these tips and tricks during school, while you're studying, and when you're out and about to break down and complete math problems easily. [Edit]Play math games. - Build up your skills while having some fun! Look for online games that match your age and education level for the best experience. You can get computer games online or download apps on your phone to play games on the go. Try sites like:[1]
- DragonBox 5+ which lets you gradually build your algebra skills until you're able to master more and more advanced equations.
- Prodigy, a game targeted at elementary-school students, that integrates math practice into a role-playing game that allows players to use math to make their way through an appealing fantasy world.
- Polyup, a calculator-based math game for more advanced high school and college students.
[Edit]Practice math in everyday scenarios. - Make math part of your daily life to practice it without even thinking. For example, if a sweater that's regularly $38 is on sale for 30% off, what is the sale price? ($26.60). Or if you need to double a recipe that calls for 3/4 cup of flour, how much flour will you need? (1.5 cups).[2]
- Or, if you plan to hike a new trail that's 7 miles long and it takes you 20 minutes to walk a mile, how long should you plan for your hike to take? (2 hours and 36 minutes).
[Edit]Use mental math if you can. - Doing math in your head can help you remember key concepts. Some problems, like geometry or calculus, require a pencil and paper to get started; however, math basics like addition, subtraction, multiplication, and division are ones you can do in your head. If you come across an easy problem, do it in your mind first before resorting to a calculator.[3]
- If you're worried about your mental math skills, you can always double check your answer on your phone or computer.
[Edit]Review math concepts every day. - Practice makes perfect, and math is no exception. Set a study schedule for yourself and try to review your math problems for 15 to 20 minutes per day (or more if a test is coming up). Your skills will build up over time with not much effort on your part![4]
- Make note cards. Write out important concepts and formulas on note cards so that you can easily refer to them while doing problems and use them for study guides before exams.
- Study in a quiet place. Distractions, whether aural or visual, will detract both from your ability to pay attention and to retain information.
- Study when you're alert and rested. Don't try to force yourself to study late at night or when you're sleep-deprived.
[Edit]Show your work, not just your answers. - Writing it all out can help you spot mistakes. As you work through a problem, use a pencil to write out what you did and how you did it. Some teachers require you to show your work anyway, so it shouldn't be too much of a hassle.[5]
- Showing your work can also help you check your answers on homework and test problems.
- Don't solve math problems with a pen! Use a pencil so you can erase and correct mistakes if they happen.
[Edit]Sketch out word problems to give yourself a visual. - Word problems are usually tougher than straight math problems. If you're struggling with picturing the problem on the page, grab a pencil and get to drawing. You don't have to be an artist—make a few circles to represent pies or some stick figures to stand in for people. Use your visuals to help you solve the problem as you work through it.[6]
- For example, a problem might say, "If you have 4 pieces of candy split evenly into 2 bags, how many pieces of candy are in each bag?" You could draw 2 squares to represent the bags, then fill in 4 circles split between them to represent the candy.
[Edit]Practice with example problems. - You can find tons of example problems online. If you're going over a concept, look it up and try 2 to 3 problems on your own. Check the answers to figure out if you got them right, and study the concept again if you didn't.[7]
- Your teacher might also be able to give you some extra example problems if you ask for them.
- Using example problems is a great way to practice for a test.
- Identify which skills and concepts you'll need to solve the problem. This will give you an overall sense of what you'll need to do to find the solution.[8]
[Edit]Look up lessons online. - Sometimes you need a little more explanation to really understand. If you're having trouble and you don't have class for a few days, try looking up a math lesson online. There are tons of resources for math students out there, including:[9]
- PatrickJMT on YouTube, a college math professor
- Khan Academy, a website with video lessons and interactive study guides
- Breaking Math, a podcast for math concepts
[Edit]Master one concept before moving onto the next. - In math, each topic builds upon the last one. It's super hard to move forward if you don't understand the previous lesson. If there's something you aren't quite getting, spend some extra time studying it or doing homework problems to really cement it into your mind.[10]
- If you're struggling with a particular idea or concept, don't skip it and move ahead. Instead, seek help from the instructor or a tutor until you've mastered the idea.[11]
[Edit]Teach math problem or concept to someone else. - Learning by teaching someone is a great way to solidify concepts. Invite a friend or family member over and explain to them what you're doing and how you're doing it. If you get stuck, review your notes or textbook again until you can explain it clearly and concisely.[12]
- Have your friend or family member ask you questions, too. Try to answer them as best you can to really practice.
- Try not to fall behind in your homework or schoolwork. The more you keep up in class, the easier it will be.
- Relate the math concepts that you're learning to real-world examples to make the work meaningful to you.[13]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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