| How to Store Fine China Posted: 29 May 2021 01:00 AM PDT If you have a set of fine china, chances are you don't use it on a daily, weekly, or even monthly basis. More often than not, china dishes are something you might get out for special occasions once or twice a year. It's up to you whether to display your fancy dishes or pack them away out of sight when they're not in use. Either way, follow some general guidelines to keep your china in tip-top shape for years to come. [Edit]On Display - Store your china collection in a glass display cabinet to show it off year-round. Display cabinets with glass fronts keep your precious china safe from accidents and dust and let you showcase your favorite pieces. Arrange your best china inside the cabinet in a visually appealing way and keep pieces from touching one another.[1]
- For example, place the smallest, most delicate items like cups and stemware on the top shelves of the cabinet. Put larger items like plates, bowls, and pitchers on the lower shelves and arrange some teacups or other interesting pieces in front of them to make the display look nice.
- If you have an extensive china set, put the pieces that you use the most or that you like the best in the display cabinet, then pack the rest away in storage containers to take out on the special occasions when you need more dishes.
- Put plates in a plate rack when you store them on a shelf or in a cabinet. Store displayed plates vertically whenever possible to save space and avoid stacking them. The edges of plates are actually the strongest parts and plates are less likely to get damaged if they're stored vertically.[2]
- Make sure that the rack you use keeps the plates separate, so they don't bump into one another.
- Display bowls, cups, and mugs rim-side-up to prevent damage. Place these types of dishes right-side-up individually and avoid stacking them whenever possible. This prevents chipping on the most fragile parts of your valuable china pieces.[3]
- Don't store china cups by hanging them from the handle. It might seem like a great space saving idea, but the handles are delicate and prone to breakage if you store them this way.
- Place a piece of tissue paper or foam between any stacked pieces. Fold up a piece of acid-free tissue paper, so that it's a few layers thick, or use a square of polyethylene foam. Put a piece in between each stacked piece of china, such as between every plate, to prevent them from touching and potentially chipping or cracking.[4]
- In a pinch, use a napkin, a paper towel, or a paper plate between stacked dishes. Anything soft that keeps the dishes from touching is better than nothing!
- Avoid using newspapers because the ink rubs off and makes a mess on your china.
- Dust off your collection every 6-12 months. Use a soft brush, like a sable paint brush, to gently dust off all your displayed china pieces once or twice a year. This prevents dust from getting embedded in any unglazed surfaces or hairline cracks and keeps your pieces looking clean and beautiful.[5]
- If the brush you use has any metal bits on it, be careful not to scratch the china. Only let the bristles of the brush touch your dishes.
[Edit]In Storage Bins - Pack un-displayed pieces into small plastic containers to store them safely. China is heavy, so opt for small containers to avoid overpacking them. Use sealable plastic containers to provide long-lasting protection that also keeps moisture out.[6]
- Avoid using cardboard boxes to store your precious china. They get squished easily and are prone to water damage.
- Wrap each piece of china separately in bubble wrap or butcher's paper. Either wrapping material is sufficient for home storage, but opt for bubble wrap if you're planning to move your china. Wrap each plate, bowl, cup, saucer, lid, and any other pieces of china you have in its own piece of butcher's paper or bubble wrap.[7]
- Don't use newspapers because the ink rubs off on dishes, meaning more unnecessary washing for you to do whenever you want to use the china.
- Turn plates and bowls sideways to avoid stacking them. Slide plates vertically into the storage bins. Do the same for bowls, but pack some extra butcher's paper or bubble wrap around them to keep them steady on their sides in the bins.[8]
- Stacking items puts a lot of weight on them and makes them more prone to damage if the bin gets accidentally dropped. Any weakened or damaged items are also prone to breakage if they're stacked.
- Place cardboard dividers between delicate items to keep them separate. Fold and bend pieces of cardboard into squares or circles to fit around things like stemware, tea cups, and mugs inside the storage bins. Put the cardboard dividers in between all the delicate pieces to prevent them from getting jostled and bumping into one another.[9]
- There are also grid-shaped cardboard dividers available to purchase from packing material supply shops. Just make sure they're big enough to fit your wrapped china if you choose to use these types of premade dividers.
- Label containers with their contents to keep track of what's inside. Write inventory lists for each bin that include the types of dishes that are inside and how many of them there are. Tape the lists to the outsides of the bins.[10]
- That way you know exactly where everything is when you go to dig out certain dishes once or twice a year or when you're moving.
- Store your bins of china at room temperature in a climate-controlled space. Pick an area to keep the bins where you have control over the temperature year round. Keep china out of extreme heat and cold, which can damage painted details and cause cracking.[11]
- Avoid stacking the plastic bins, so there's no excessive weight on your boxes of precious china.
- There are also special quilted and padded storage bags made to fit dishes of all shapes and sizes. Consider purchasing some of these if you want a specialized china storage solution.
[Edit]Warnings - Avoid stacking china whenever possible. It's OK to stack plates as long as you are careful and place something soft like acid-free tissue paper or packing foam between each plate to prevent them from touching.
- Don't hang china cups by their handles, especially if the handles have been repaired.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]On Display - Glass display cabinet
- Plate rack
- Acid-free tissue paper or polyethylene foam
- Soft brush
[Edit]In Storage Bins - Small plastic bins
- Bubble wrap or butcher's paper
- Cardboard dividers
- Paper
- Pen
- Tape
[Edit]References |
| How to Become a Ballet Dancer Posted: 28 May 2021 05:00 PM PDT No matter your age, ballet is a fun way to strengthen your body while expressing yourself through the art of dance. If you're really passionate about it, you might even consider pursuing a professional ballet career. It won't always be easy, but with hard work and dedication, you could find yourself dancing center stage, just like the prima ballerinas you look up to today! [Edit]Taking Ballet Classes - Choose a professional studio if you want to pursue dance seriously. If you want the type of dance training that could potentially prepare you for a career as a dancer, look for a professional studio when you start taking classes. In particular, look for a reputable school that uses a recognized ballet method like Royal Academy of Dance (RAD), Vaganova, or Cecchetii.[1]
- Professional ballet schools typically have ties to well-known ballet organizations, so you'll have more opportunities to dance in professional productions. They also provide annual examinations to critique your progress as a dancer.
- Take classes at a recreational studio if you just want to dance for fun. If you want to dance ballet but you're not as concerned about a long-term career, sign up for classes at a recreational studio. However, do still take the time to find a reputable school with experienced instructors—learning good technique is an important part of avoiding injuries while you dance.[2]
- Recreational schools often focus on a big recital at the end of the year rather than preparing you for professional opportunities. Depending on where you live, it might be easier to find recreational schools near you.
- Find an experienced dance teacher. If you take classes from an inexperienced dance teacher, you could learn bad habits that can affect your form for the rest of your dance career. To avoid that, read up on each studio's instructors online or talk to them in person to find out where they trained. In particular, look for someone who:[3]
- Has trained with a professional company
- Is well-trained as an instructor, not just a dancer
- Has a dance degree or reputable certifications
- Has a good reputation in the dance community
- Makes you feel at ease
- Look for a studio that offers smaller classes, if possible. Ideally, try to join a studio that has no more than about 12 students in each class. Smaller classes mean you'll get more personalized attention from the dance instructor, so you'll be less likely to learn bad habits that slip by under the radar.[4]
- If a dance class has more than 12 students, it's a lot harder for the instructor to see what everyone is doing at all times.
- This is especially important if you're hoping to have a dance career, since you'll need a solid foundation with great technique. However, even if you're just dancing for fun, you'll still benefit from having an instructor who'll notice and correct you when your form isn't right.
- Dress in clothes that show your figure. When you're getting dressed for dance class, call ahead or check the school's website to see if there's a dress code. Some schools require females to wear pink or black tights and a leotard, while males are usually asked to wear a fitted white T-shirt and black tights or full-body tights.[5] However, some schools have more relaxed requirements, so you may be able to wear something like a tank top and leggings.[6]
- Wear your hair pulled up or pinned back from your face.[7]
- Wear ballet shoes that match your tights.[8] Most schools require you to wear ballet shoes to class because they'll help keep you from slipping on the dance floor. Ballet shoes fit a little differently than traditional shoes, so stop by a local dance store to make sure you get the best fit.[9]
- Pink shoes and pink tights are the most common option for ballet class, but if the studio allows, you can wear black shoes and black tights instead.
- Avoid wearing black shoes with pink tights—in the ballet world, this is considered tacky.[10]
- Do not wear pointe shoes until your instructor tells you that you're ready![11]
- Bring a water bottle and a bag with a change of clothes. Ballet can really get your heart pumping, so bring along some water to drink in case you get thirsty. In addition, bring a fresh change of clothes and a bag to put your sweaty dance clothes in after class.[12]
- Keep your dance shoes in a separate bag—it's important to keep them clean, so you don't want them tumbling around with your dirty dance clothes.
- Don't chew gum or eat candy during class—it could be a choking hazard![13]
- Show up to class 10-15 minutes early so you can warm up. It's always important to warm up before you do any type of exercise, but you might not get time to do that during your class. To be sure you get a chance to get your muscles moving before your teacher calls the students to the barre, show up a few minutes before class starts. [14]
- To warm up, do some stretches, as well as a few basic exercises to get your heart pumping, like jumping-jacks or running in place.[15]
- Pay close attention during your lessons. Give the instructor the respect they deserve and really listen to everything they say. If you're only half-heartedly going along with the moves, you're wasting your teacher's—and your own—time, not to mention the money you spent on the class. You could even be taking up a spot in the class that someone else wanted.[16]
- Being a dancer takes self-motivation, so if you find yourself feeling discouraged, try to tap into what made you want to dance in the first place.
- Try not to compare how you're doing to the other dancers in the room. Sometimes, you might be in a class with students who have more experience or natural ability than you, but it's important to only focus on what you're doing and how to be the best you can be.[17]
[Edit]Dancing Pointe - Wait to do pointe work until your instructor says you're ready. Moving to pointe shoes is a milestone that many ballet dancers look forward to. However, it's important not to start too soon—your feet have to be developed and strong enough to support you on pointe, or you could injure yourself.[18] Trust your instructor to let you know when you're ready.[19] Here are some of the criteria they'll use:
- Be at least 11 years old[20]
- Have taken at least 3 years of classes, preferably 3 times a week or more.
- Have proper turnout and a strong core
- Be able to do full pointe at the barre and in center
- Have the calf strength and enough of an arched instep to support you on pointe
- Get fitted for pointe shoes.[21] To make sure you get the perfect pointe shoes for your feet, go to a professional pointe shoe fitter for a consultation. They'll help you find the right size, and they'll also give you personalized recommendations based on the shape and condition of your feet.[22]
- Once you purchase your pointe shoes, you'll need to sew ribbons and elastics onto them. You may also want to press on the toe box or bend the soles of your pointe shoes—called the shanks—back and forth a few times to help break them in before you wear them.
- Every dancer has their own way to sew on elastics and break in their shoes. If you're not sure where to start, talk to the shoe fitter or your dance teacher for tips.
- Wear padding and tie your shoes securely. To put on your pointe shoes correctly, start by slipping a gel or wool pad over your toes. Then, put on your pointe shoes and tie them—the ribbons and elastics will hold the shoes on your feet while providing support for your ankles.[23]
- Over time, you'll figure out how to tie your shoes so they feel secure and comfortable. A good way to start is to wrap the inner strap (the one closest to your instep) around your leg twice, stopping on the inside of your ankle. Then, wrap the outer strap twice, tie the straps together on the inside of your leg, and tuck the ends under the straps.
- Build your endurance gradually. Dancing on pointe is often painful at first because you're using muscles that you don't normally use. As you practice over time, these muscles will get stronger, and you'll build up callouses that will help make it easier to dance on pointe.[24]
- Put on your pointe shoes for at least a few minutes every day, even on days you don't dance. That will help you keep the calluses that will allow you to dance on pointe.[25]
- Professional dancers are expected to be able to dance pointe for long periods at a time. Keep practicing until you can do a whole class on pointe.[26]
[Edit]Becoming a Professional Dancer - Take ballet classes at a reputable school for about 8-10 years. Becoming a professional dancer takes a lot of dedication. It takes years of perfecting your technique before you're ready to start dancing professionally. Sometimes, you might have to sacrifice hanging out with your friends or other after-school activities to pursue your goal. If you really love it though, it will be worth it!
- Most students start at about the age of 7, then take classes until they're in their teens. If you're a little older than that, you can still reach your goal, so don't give up on your dream. However, do be aware that it will take a lot of work—and a decent helping of natural talent.[27]
- Practice most days of the week to condition your body. If you want to be a professional dancer, just taking classes a couple of days a week isn't going to be enough. Plan to dance 5-6 days every single week to make sure you have the technique, muscle memory, and training to accomplish your goal.[28]
- Depending on where you live, you might need to take classes at more than one studio to get the training you'll need.
- Cross-train if you want to build additional strength. Ballet is great for strengthening your body, so if you don't have much time for extra exercise, don't worry too much about it. However, if you want to change things up a little and add a little extra muscle strength, consider adding in activities like swimming, cycling, and yoga.[29]
- These exercises are good for your joints so they'll help with your flexibility, and they use many of the same muscles as ballet.
- Eat a healthy diet that will fuel your body. As a ballet dancer, it's ideal to have a slender frame. However, avoid the temptation to starve yourself to get that ideal dancer's figure. If you want the stamina to work as a professional dancer, you'll need to follow a healthy diet that will fuel your body for long days.[30]
- Pay attention to what foods make you feel energized and which ones make you feel sluggish. That's different for everyone, but in general, lean proteins and plenty of fruits and veggies will give you the best boost, while foods that are high in processed carbs or unhealthy fats will probably make you feel weighed down.
- Professional dancers work long hours—on a typical day, you might dance from 10 am to 7 pm, or even later on a day with a performance.[31]
- Participate in evaluations, competitions, and open classes. Throughout your ballet career, you'll typically have opportunities to dance in performances, be judged in yearly evaluations, and take part in competitions. Try to take advantage of these whenever they come along—if you can catch the eye of a scout, you may be invited to take an open class with a dance company, which can open the door to even more opportunities down the road.[32]
- Summer intensives are ballet camps that are offered by dance companies. This is a great way to get additional dance experience!
- Be prepared to audition for roles so you can dance in various productions!
- Keep in mind that you'll likely need to travel for some of these opportunities.
- Accept a position as an apprentice if you're offered one. If you work hard and get noticed by the right people, you may be offered an apprenticeship with a dance company. Congratulations! This is basically an entry-level position for a professional dancer. You'll basically be an understudy for the core dancers, so even if you don't perform, you'll get the same training they do.[33]
- You'll probably need to move to a large city like New York to perform with a dance company.
- Continue working hard until you're promoted to a core member. Give your apprenticeship the same dedication that you would if you were dancing on stage. Eventually, your talent and devotion might just pay off and land you a spot as a core dancer in the company. At that point, you'll be given more opportunities to dance in company productions.[34]
- Keep working your very hardest—you might even be promoted to lead dancer if you really stand out!
- When you're first checking out dance studios, consider taking a trial class to make sure the studio is a good fit for you. Remember, even if it's hard work, dance class should be fun![35]
[Edit]References |
| How to Make an Indicator Using Hibiscus Petals Posted: 28 May 2021 09:00 AM PDT If you're looking for a fun science experiment to do at home, making an indicator solution might be the perfect project. By mixing dried hibiscus leaves and water, you can make a cheap and sensitive chemical indicator for bases and acids in just a few minutes. After that, you can go wild with testing household items to see where they fall on the pH scale. [Edit]Combine your dried hibiscus petals with water. - You'll need around 2 to 3 grams of dried hibiscus petals. Place your petals in a 150 mL beaker along with 50 to 60 mL of water to start. The water won't change colors just yet, so hang tight![1]
- If you gathered your own hibiscus flowers, gently pluck off the petals and spread them out on a paper towel. Leave the petals in the sun for 2 to 3 days until the leaves look crispy and slightly brown.
[Edit]Boil the mixture for 3 to 5 minutes. - You can use a Bunsen burner or a hot plate. Place your beaker onto the burner, then turn it up high. Get the water boiling for about 5 minutes until it starts to turn dark red.[2]
- No need to stir your mixture—just sit back and relax.
[Edit]Cool the mixture for 5 to 10 minutes. - Turn off the burner and let the mixture sit. This will allow all the sediment to settle at the bottom of the pot. You can use this time to ready the rest of your equipment, like a clean beaker and a few test tubes.[3]
- If you pour the liquid too early, you might end up with a chunky, lumpy indicator.
[Edit]Pour the liquid into a clean beaker. - Try not to disturb the petals at the bottom of the liquid. Gently pour the liquid into a clean 100 mL beaker, separating it from the petals. If you're having trouble, set a strainer on top of your beaker and strain the liquid instead.[4]
- The liquid will be a deep red color, but you should still be able to see light shining through it.
[Edit]Mix your chemical with water in a test tube. - Pick out the substance you'd like to test with your hibiscus solution. Add around 1 tsp (5.6 g) of it to the bottom of a test tube, then add 4 to 5 mL of water to the tube with a dropper. Cap the test tube with your finger and shake it up to dissolve the substrate in the water.[5]
- The substance you choose is up to you, but people often use salt, window cleaner, orange juice, apple juice, or toilet bowl cleaner.
[Edit]Add 4 to 5 drops of hibiscus indicator to the tube. - Put your indicator to the test! Use a dropper to add 4 or 5 drops of hibiscus water to the test tube. You'll notice a color change right away as the hibiscus petals interact with the chemical.[6]
- Hibiscus flowers contain the colour pigment anthocyanin, which is a natural chemical indicator.
[Edit]Check the color change of the water. - The color change will tell you if it's acidic or basic. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. A pH of less than 7 indicates acidity, while a pH of more than 7 indicates a base. Anywhere from dark pink to pale pink usually indicates an acid, while dark gray to green colors usually indicate a base. The rest of the colors indicate:[7]
- Dark pink: pH 2
- Pink: pH 3 to pH 4
- Pale pink: pH 5
- Lavender: pH 6
- Gray: pH 7 or pH 8
- Dark gray: pH 9
- Brown: pH 10 or pH 11
- Green: pH 12
[Edit]Things You'll Need - 2 to 3 grams of dried hibiscus petals
- 150 mL beaker
- Bunsen burner or a hot plate
- 100 mL beaker
- 1 tsp (5.6 g) of a chemical of your choice
- Test tube
- Dropper
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
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