How to Make Your Eyelashes Naturally Longer Posted: 08 Aug 2021 01:00 AM PDT If you'd like naturally longer, fuller lashes, it can be hard to figure out what products and lifestyle changes actually work. Thankfully, there are some natural ways you can promote lash growth and prevent breakage for longer, thicker lashes. Try incorporating a few of these methods into your beauty routine to see results in as little as one month. [Edit]Which products help your eyelashes grow? - Lash serum can help your eyelashes grow. Pick out a lash serum from your local beauty supply store. Swipe it on at night to prolong the growth cycle (anagen phase) of your lash hairs. You'll probably see results in about one month, so keep at it![1]
- Look for a lash serum with biotin in it for best results. It's a B vitamin that's good for your hair, skin, nails, and lashes.[2]
- While some mascaras may claim they help eyelashes grow, a lash serum is the only product that will actually help.
[Edit]Do oils help your eyelashes grow? - Olive oil helps moisturize and condition your lashes. Dip a cotton swab into a bottle of pure olive oil. Wash and dry your lashes, then gently swipe the oil on, being careful not to get it in your eyes. Leave it on overnight and wash it off in the morning for soft, fuller-looking lashes.[3]
- Castor oil can also moisturize and condition your lashes. Wash your eyelids and pat them dry with a towel. Dip a cotton swab or a clean mascara wand into the castor oil, then brush it onto your lashes. Leave the oil on overnight for healthy, thick lashes.[4]
[Edit]How do you manually stimulate eyelash growth? - Comb your eyelashes with a clean spoolie. Grab a spoolie, or a mascara wand, and wash it off with soap and water until it's completely clean. Before you head to bed, brush through your lashes for a few minutes to promote blood flow to the area and (hopefully) make your lashes grow longer.[5]
- Massage your eyelids. After you take your makeup off, put a warm washcloth over your eyelids for 1 to 2 minutes. Wash your hands and dab 1 to 2 drops of olive oil onto your fingertips. Gently massage your eyelids for 3 to 5 minutes, then wipe off the oil before washing your hands again.[6]
[Edit]What lifestyle changes can I make to grow my eyelashes? - Maintain a healthy diet. Not only will it improve your overall health, it will promote strong lashes that don't break as easily. Focus on eating fruits, vegetables, and lean protein to get all the vitamins and minerals that you need for the day.[7]
- Salmon contains omega-3 fatty acids, which promote the growth of full, shiny hair.
- Greek yogurt contains vitamin B5, which promotes blood flow and helps keep hair thick.
- Spinach contains vitamin A, iron, beta carotene, folate, and vitamin C, which combine to give you strong, well-moisturized hair.
- Citrus fruits and guava contain vitamin C, which prevents breakage.
- Meats, iron-fortified cereals, and leafy greens will give you the iron you need to keep your hair growing.
- Lean poultry and other sources of lean protein promote hair growth. When you're not getting enough protein, your hair stops growing.
[Edit]Does petroleum jelly make your eyelashes grow? - No, but it can make your eyelashes softer and stronger. Petroleum jelly is sometimes recommended as a treatment for eyelashes, and while it can help moisturize them, it probably won't make them grow super long.[8] If you'd like to use petroleum jelly on your eyelashes, clean your eyelid area with a mild cleanser and pat it dry. Dip a cotton swab into the petroleum jelly and apply it to your lashes, being careful not to get it in your eye. Do this every night for the best results.[9]
[Edit]How do I protect my lashes from breakage? - Don't pull or tug on your lashes. For the most part, you should try to touch your lashes as little as possible throughout the day. Pulling on them can really cause breakage, and it might make your eyelashes look a little thin.[10]
- Curl your lashes carefully. If you like to curl your lashes, gently place an eyelash curler on top of your lashes as close to your lash line as you can. Squeeze the curler shut, but don't pump the curler—that can damage your eyelashes and make them prone to breakage. When you're done squeezing, move halfway down your lashes and squeeze the curler again.[11]
- Take your makeup off every night. Before you go to sleep, use a gentle makeup remover to wipe off any mascara and eyeshadow you might be wearing. Follow up with a mild facial cleanser, then pat your skin dry. Leaving mascara on for too long can leave your eyelashes feeling dry and brittle, so it's important to do this every night.[12]
- If you wear false lashes, be sure to clean them with a mild cleanser each time you wear them.[13]
- If you get lash lifts, make sure you're using a lash conditioner daily.[14]
- There are many serums on the market that claim to boost lash growth. It's worthwhile to read online reviews before purchasing one, as not all of them work equally well, and some may even cause irritation or allergic reactions.
- Most of these methods will take at least a month to work. Use them consistently for the best results.
- While coconut oil and green tea are sometimes recommended for eyelash growth, olive oil and castor oil are better choices.
[Edit]Warnings - If you suffer from styes or any other eyelid-related issues, be extra careful about what you use on your eyelids and lashes.
- Eyes and the skin around them are sensitive. If you experience any irritation from any of the treatments you're putting on your lashes, stop using them immediately.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References
[Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Extend Speaker Wires Posted: 07 Aug 2021 05:00 PM PDT You've found the perfect spot for your speakers and stereo equipment, and now you're ready to hook it all up—but your speaker wire isn't long enough to connect it to the amp. For a quick fix, you can twist the wires together and tape them. This isn't a great long-term option though, because the wires can pull apart and short out your system.[1] For a more permanent solution, use crimp connectors or solder the wires together. [Edit]Cutting and Stripping - Double-check that your speaker is disconnected before you start. Unplug the power to the speaker and disconnect the speaker wire from your amp. If there's any power running to the speaker, you could be seriously hurt when you start working with the wires.
- Match the size of your replacement and existing wire. For the best sound results, use stranded (not solid) speaker wire that's the same gauge (AWG) as your existing wire. Some wires will have the gauge printed down the side of the wire. If yours doesn't, place the wire in the holes of your wire cutter until you find the hole it fits in most closely. The number that's printed beside that hole is the wire gauge.[2]
- You can also cut a small piece of the wire and take it with you to a store that sells audio supplies so they can tell you.
- Speaker wire ranges from 10AWG (which is very thick) to 20AWG (which is very thin). 18 gauge (AWG) is the most popular size, and it's usually used for distances of up to . 16 gauge is also common, especially for distances up to .[3]
- You can splice 2 differently-sized wires together, as long as they're close in gauge (like 18AWG and 16AWG).
- Measure and cut your extra speaker wire. Use a tape measure to find how much extra length you need on your wire. However, add at least to that measurement. You'll need a little extra slack in the wire, since too much tension could damage the connection on your speakers or amp or cause the wire to pull free.[4] Then, use wire cutters to cut the extra speaker wire to that length.[5]
- Many wire strippers also act as wire cutters, so you may not need two separate tools for this.
- Consider off-setting the cuts on the negative and positive wire instead of cutting them straight across. For instance, you might make the positive end of the existing wire longer than the negative. Then, on the extension wire, you'd cut the positive side shorter than the negative. This off-set will make the finished wire less bulky, and there's no chance the positive and negatives will touch.[6]
- Strip the ends of both pieces of wire. Your speaker wire should look like 2 small tubes attached together. Carefully pull these apart, so the wire forms a Y shape.[7] Then, clamp a wire stripper about from the end of the wire—squeeze just firmly enough to hold the wire in place, but not so tightly that you damage the wire beneath. Pull the wire firmly with your free hand. The insulation should slide off, exposing the bare wire without damaging it.[8]
- Do this for both the positive and negative sides on the extension wire.
- If the bare wires are already exposed on your existing speaker cord, you may not need to strip them again. If the wires look frayed, though, it's a good idea to cut them shorter and strip them so you have a fresh piece of wire to work with. Cut the wire as close to the frayed pieces as possible.
[Edit]Twisting and Taping - Twist the positive ends of the two wires together. Find the positive sides of your existing wire and the extension. Use your fingers to gently spread apart the strands that make up the wire to increase the contact between the two wires. Interlace the two bare pieces of wire through each other at the base so they make a V shape, then twist them together in a clockwise motion until they're connected tightly.[9]
- If there's any identifying feature on one side of the wire—like if one side is black and the other is colored, or if one side is striped, printed, stamped, or molded—that's the positive side. Also, if one side of the wire is silver and the other is gold, the gold side is positive.[10]
- Connect the negative ends of the wires. Take the two remaining pieces of bare wire on your extension. These will be the two negative sides. Twist these sides together just like you did for the positive ends—interlace the strands in a V shape, then spin the wires until they're wound together tightly.[11]
- Wrap each set of wires in electrical tape. Starting on the positive wires, wrap a piece of tape around the insulation on one side of the connection. Keep wrapping the tape over itself in a spiral until you've completely covered all of the bare wire.[12] Then, repeat that on the negative side of the wires.
- Do not leave any bare wire showing at all. If the positive and negative sides of the wire touch, your speaker could short out and be permanently damaged. You'll also risk being shocked if you touch the bare wire while the speaker is on.[13]
- Give each set of wires a light tug to make sure they're secure after you tape them.[14]
- Go around the whole wire with more tape. Although all of the bare wire is now covered, you still have two separate pieces of wire that are split in the middle. This could potentially create a weak spot in the wire, so press the two sides together and wrap the whole thing in more electrical tape to create a secure single wire.
- Although this will help stabilize the wire, the connection could still loosen over time, especially if you move the wire or put a lot of pressure on it. Eventually, that could cause a short that could damage your stereo equipment.[15]
[Edit]Using a Crimp Connector - Twist each bare end of wire tightly. Don't worry about connecting the wire yet. Just use your fingers to twist the positive and negative ends of both pieces of wire until you can't see any individual strands.[16]
- Identify the positive ends and negative sides of the wires. Look at your speaker wire and find the side that's red, gold, printed, or stamped. This is the positive side. Find the positive end of the extension wire, as well. Be sure to keep track of which side is which—if you attach a positive wire to a negative one, you could short out your speakers, permanently damaging them.[17]
- Push each set of wires into a crimp connector. Insert the positive end of your existing speaker wire into the first crimp connector as far as the bare wire will go. Then, insert the positive end of the extension wire into the other end of the connector. Put the negative ends of the wires into a second connector in the same way.[18]
- Double-check that there isn't any bare wire showing on either side. If there is, pull that end of the wire out of the connector and cut the bare wire a little shorter.
- Make sure you choose the right crimp connector for your type of wire. They're usually color-coded—yellow for 10-12 AWG, blue for 14-16 AWG, and red for 18-22 AWG. You might see crimp connectors called butt connectors or butt splices—these terms all refer to the same thing!
- Clamp down on each connector with a crimp tool. A crimp tool looks similar to a wrench, but it has spaces in its jaws where you can place a wire. Place one end of the crimp connector into one of these channels, then press down hard on the tool to crimp the connector onto the wire. Do the same on the other side of the connector.[19]
- Crimping the connector will lock it onto the wire, creating a permanent splice.
- Don't use pliers or any other tool to crimp the wire—it won't hold the connector securely in place.
- Double-check your connection by pulling on the wire. With the wire still held in the crimping tool, gently pull on the wire. If it comes loose, it wasn't secured and you'll need to start over with a new connector.[20]
- After you check that the wires are secure, you can wrap the connectors in electrical tape for extra stability. Don't use the tape to stabilize poorly-secured connectors, though.
- Try a wire nut as a quick alternative to a crimp connector. Wire nuts work similarly to crimp connectors, but they aren't quite as secure. Just push the positive ends of the wires side-by-side into a wire nut, then turn the nut clockwise to intertwine the wires. Do the same for the negative sides.[21]
[Edit]Soldering the Wire - Twist the positive ends of each wire together. The positive side of the wire will be printed or stamped, or it may be red (the negative side will be black) or gold (the negative side will be silver). Lay the bare ends of each positive wire over each other to form an X. Then, rotate one side of the wire toward you and the other side away from you to twist the two wires together.[22]
- Keep twisting until the wires are connected firmly together.
- Tuck the ends of the wire in neatly—if they're sticking up, they could pierce through the electrical tape you use at the end.
- Use clamps to hold your wire off of your work surface. Solder uses high heat, so it's important not to place the wires directly on a surface that could be damaged, like a wooden table. Try using a helping hands device to lift the wires—it's a small device with two metal clips that will hold the wire in place.[23]
- If you don't have a helping hands device, you can improvise by clamping the wire between two alligator clips, then standing the clips on end. This won't be super-secure, though, so try not to bump the clips or the wire while you're working.
- You could also work on a heat-safe surface, like a metal or concrete workbench.
- Melt solder onto the bare wires. Place the tip of a hot soldering iron to the bare, twisted wire. At the same time, place a stick of solder against the wire. Once the iron heats the solder enough, the solder will melt, flowing over and into the speaker wire. Coat the wire completely in the solder from one end to the other.[24]
- Flip the wire over and repeat this on the bottom. Unclamp your wire and turn it over so the bottom is exposed. Then, melt solder over this side as well, until the bare speaker wire is completely covered.[25]
- If you have enough room to maneuver beneath the wire, you could just hold the soldering iron and solder under the wire and melt it that way, rather than flipping the wire over.
- Once you've soldered the wire, let it cool for 5-10 minutes before you handle it.
- Repeat the whole process to connect the negative sides of the speaker wire.
- Wrap the wire in electrical tape. Even though there's solder coating the wire, it still needs to be insulated—the solder is conductive, so if the positive and negative sides touch, the wire will short out. Wrap the whole splice in electrical tape, going from one end of the insulation to the other. Do this for both the positive and negative sides of the wire. To create a cleaner look, you can then pinch the positive and negative sides together, then wrap the whole thing in electrical tape as well.[26]
- You can also use heat shrink tubing to insulate the wires. Put the tubing on the wire before you splice the ends together, but keep it away from the heat of the soldering iron. Once the solder is cool, slide the tubing over the splice and use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink it around the bare wire.[27]
- When you're extending speaker wire, it's usually most convenient to do so permanently. If you think you might just need a temporary connection, though, you might want to use banana plugs so you can easily disconnect and reconnect the wire.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Cut and Strip - Extra speaker wire
- Measuring tape
- Wire cutters/strippers
[Edit]Twist and Tape [Edit]Crimp Connector - Crimp connector
- Crimping tool
- Electrical tape (optional)
- Metal clamps or helping hands
- Soldering iron
- Solder
- Electrical tape or heat-shrink tube
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
How to French Knit Posted: 07 Aug 2021 09:00 AM PDT If you'd love to learn how to knit but struggle with using the needles, start with a knitting dolly. To French knit, you simply wrap yarn around a hollow dolly that has pegs at the top. Work the yarn around the pegs to create a long knit cord that comes out of the bottom of the dolly. It's a great introduction to knitting that will give you the confidence to try larger projects. [Edit]Setting up the Knitting Dolly - Gather your yarn and knitting dolly. Buy a knitting dolly that has 4 pegs at the top. You'll also need yarn that is thin enough to pass through the center of the knitting dolly. Place a darning needle, crochet hook, and scissors at your work space.[1]
- For a multicolored effect, choose variegated yarn where the color fades and changes in a single skein.
- If you want to make your own dolly, stick 4 push pins around the edge of a spool of thread.
- Tie a slip knot at the end of the yarn. Hold the end of the yarn and twist it into a loop. Leave a 6 to 8 inch (15 to 20 cm) tail at the end of the yarn. While you hold the ends of the yarn, use the fingers on your other hand to pull the loop about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Bring the yarn that's connected to the skein through the loop about halfway. You'll see a loose knot form.[2]
- You won't need to secure the slip knot onto 1 of the pegs, but the knot will make it easier to pull the yarn through the dolly.
- Thread the yarn through the center of the dolly. Lower the slip knot down through the center of the knitting dolly and snag the slip knot with the crochet hook. Use the hook to pull the yarn completely through the dolly, so about 4 inches (10 cm) of yarn comes out the bottom.[3]
- Hold the dolly with 1 hand and the working yarn with your other hand. If you're right-handed, hold the knitting dolly with your left hand. Take your right hand and hold the yarn that's coming out of the top of the dolly. The yarn will still be attached to the skein, so you may need to unroll the skein a little so you have some more yarn to work with.[4]
- If you're left-handed, hold the dolly with your right hand and use the left hand to hold the working yarn.
- Wrap the yarn clockwise around each peg. Keep the tail yarn secure on the table or hold it in your left hand so the working yarn is taut. Take the working yarn at the top of the dolly and wrap it around 1 of the pegs clockwise. Pull the yarn over the the next peg that's counterclockwise. The yarn should pass through the center of the dolly. Continue to wrap each peg in a clockwise motion before moving to the next peg.[5]
- Once you've wrapped each peg once, you're ready to begin French knitting.
[Edit]Knitting the Cord - Wrap yarn around each peg again. Make a second loop of yarn around each peg by wrapping the yarn around each peg again. Remember to wrap the yarn around each peg in a clockwise motion before moving on to the next peg.[6]
- Lift each loop over each peg to make a row of stitches. Take a pick or darning needle and lift the bottom loop of a peg onto it. Lift the loop up and over the other loop on the peg so the stitch drops into the center of the dolly. Move counterclockwise along the dolly, making a stitch for each peg.[7]
- Wrap another round of loops around the pegs. Take the working yarn and wrap it around each peg in a clockwise motion. Remember to work once around the dolly in counterclockwise direction. You should now have 2 loops on each peg.[8]
- Lift the loops to make another row of stitches. Use the pick or darning needle to lift the lower loop over the top loop. Drop the stitch through the center and work around the dolly counterclockwise. You'll start to see a stretchy, 4-sided knitted tube come out of the bottom of the dolly.[9]
- Continue to French knit until the cord is as long as you like. Keep making loops and stitching them through the center of the dolly. You may need to pull your stitches tight by tugging the yarn tail that comes out of the bottom. When you're ready to cast off, leave a single loop on each peg.
- The cord will extend out of the bottom of the knitting dolly as it becomes longer.
[Edit]Casting Off - Lift a single loop from 1 peg directly onto the next peg. To begin casting off, lift the single loop from a peg using the pick or darning needle. Lift it off the peg and drop it onto the next peg that's counterclockwise to it. This peg will now have 2 loops while the original peg won't have any.[10]
- You should now have 3 pegs with loops and 1 peg without loops.
- Make a stitch and transfer the remaining loop on the next peg. To cast off, use your pick or darning needle to lift the bottom stitch up and over the stitch on the peg. Drop it through the center, so only 1 loop remains on the peg. Lift the remaining loop up and onto the peg that's next to it counterclockwise.
- You'll now have 2 pegs without stitches.
- Cast off to leave a single loop on the last peg. Tug on the bottom of the cord to tighten the remaining loop on the peg. Cut the yarn to leave a 5-inch (12.5 cm) tail and thread your darning needle on it.[11]
- Tie off the last loop and weave the tail through the center of the cord. Take the yarn on the darning needle and lift the remaining loop onto the needle. Pull the yarn tightly to knot the loop so you can lift it off the peg. Insert the darning through the hollow center of the cord and pull it back out about 2 inches (5 cm) from the bottom. Trim the yarn so it's flush with the cord.[12]
- Use your French knit cord. For quick jewelry, sew the ends of the cord together. Use the circle to make bracelets or necklaces that you can embellish with beads, sequins, or crystals. You can also sew the cord together to make swatches of fabric for doll's clothes or simple hats and scarves.
- Remember that you can sew together several French knit cords to make larger knit items such as blankets or sweaters.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Yarn
- Knitting dolly or spool
- Pick
- Darning needle
- Crochet hook
- Scissors
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário