| How to Grow Mint in a Pot Posted: 08 Apr 2022 01:00 AM PDT Mint plants are the perfect starting point for a herb garden. They are usually contained in a pot because they are extremely invasive, sending out runner roots to take over the surrounding soil. Choose one of the 600 varieties of mint, and give it plenty of water and sun to keep your mint plant thriving. [Edit]Choosing Mint Varieties - Choose peppermint if you want a brighter, strong flavor for tea or general use.[1]
- Pick spearmint if your garden, patio or windows get a lot of light and heat throughout the year. It is used very commonly in the Southern United States.
- Plant pineapple mint if you need to plant mint next to other plants. It is one of the less invasive species of mint.
- Opt for lemon mint if you like a refreshing citrus flavor in lemonade or iced tea.
- Try apple mint for a more subtle flavor with fresh apple hints. This variety is popular in fresh salads and drinks.[2]
[Edit]Starting a Mint Plant - Go to your garden supply store to buy a mint seedling. Mint does not germinate from seed too easily, so only the most experienced gardeners should start from seed. Plant directly into potting soil or compost after you bring it home.[3]
- A garden store will have more varieties of mint; however, you may be able to find mint seedlings and plants at your local farmer's market and supermarket.
- Take a cutting from a mature mint plant. Ask a friend if you can harvest from an existing mint plant or find one in a local garden. Cut approximately above a stem junction with sharp scissors. Make sure the cutting is at least long and remove most of the leaves.
- Opt to use a mint that is purchased from the fresh food section in your supermarket. It is not guaranteed that you will be able to grow a plant from each cutting, but it is a good way to use leftover mint if you are willing to experiment.
- Fill a clean glass with water. Place freshly cut sprigs in the glass to grow new roots. Keep it in a warm, sunny place and wait for white roots to grow out of the cut stem.[4]
- Add water as needed to keep the glass full.
- Wait until the white roots grow several inches long before planting. They can even extend to the bottom of your pot depth.
[Edit]Choosing a Pot - Shop for a pot that is at least 12 inches (30.5 cm) in diameter. A mint plant needs plenty of space to grow.[5]
- Choose a pot with drainage holes in the bottom. A mint plant thrives in well-drained soil. Purchase a saucer to place below the pot to avoid staining your windowsill or patio.
- Purchase an additional, much larger, pot if you want to pot mint and other herbs together. You can submerge the whole 12-inch pot in a larger pot, next to other herbs. Keep in mind that many species of mint will still find a way to take over the entire pot through the holes in the bottom of the mint pot.
- If you want to plant it with other herbs, you will want to separate the herbs later in the season.
[Edit]Planting Mint in a Pot - Purchase gritty compost from a local gardening store. You can also combine potting soil with rich compost. Mint plants need rich and well-drained soil to thrive.
- Fill the lower third of the pot with compost and potting soil.
- Set your mint cutting or seedling in the pot. Curl the roots if they are too long for the pot.
- Fill in the area around the mint with potting soil. Pack the area just enough so that the mint stands on its own.
- Line a portion of your outdoor garden with plastic if you want to plant your pot in the soil, but want to discourage it from spreading. Then plant the entire pot into the garden soil, allowing the pot to extend five inches above the surface of the soil.[6]
- If possible, avoid planting it in the garden. Place it on a patio or on a windowsill to avoid spreading the mint plant.
- Insert several wooden dowels next to the plant to give it support. These can be removed once the plant is thriving.
[Edit]Caring for Mint Pots - Water the soil so that it sinks down to the roots. Water it whenever it is dry for the first year. It should always have moist soil.[7]
- If you experience hot weather, you may need to water it several times per day.
- Keep it in an east-facing location. It does best with six or more hours of sunlight, but also likes to be shaded from hot afternoon sun. If you have very little sunlight in the winter, it may die back.
- Wait until the mint plant is full and the leaves are large before cutting and using the mint. Once it is doing well, frequent cuttings keep the plant full and the leaves strong in flavor.
- Cut the top half of the plant with sharp scissors. Cut one cm above a stem junction and below any flower buds. Don't cut more than one-third of the leaves at one time.[8]
- If you allow your mint plant to flower, it will put the nutrients into flower production and slow down leaf growth.
- Divide your plant every few years. Cut the soil into fourths, and then plant each section into a new 12-inch pot. It would be best to give them room. If you don't divide it, the plant will suffer and the leaves will not grow steadily.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Mint seedlings
- Sharp scissors
- Large, mature mint plant
- 12-inch pot with drainage holes
- Saucer
- Potting soil
- Compost
- Windowsill
- Water
- Glass
- Wooden Dowels
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Straighten Your Hair Without Chemicals Posted: 07 Apr 2022 05:00 PM PDT If you have wavy, curly, or otherwise hard to tame locks, you may stare at people with straight hair enviously and think you'll never be able to have such easy-to-manage hair. Fortunately, straightening your hair without using damaging chemicals and other unnatural products is easy! You just need to learn some tricks for straighter hair and create some simple at-home hair straightening products. [Edit]Blow-Drying Hair Straight - Detangle your hair while it's wet. Use a wide-toothed comb to gently remove tangles without breaking your hair. Curly hair tends to tangle as it dries, so continue to comb it throughout the drying process.[1]
- Part hair into four sections. Create one section from the crown of your head forward, one over each ear, and another from the crown of your head to the nape of your neck. It's best to dry the lowest layer of hair, closest to the nape of your neck, first. Use hair clips to keep the upper layers of each section of hair separated. Comb each section gently, taking care not to snap hair strands in order to remove tangles before you begin drying.[2]
- Blow dry each section. While brushing with one hand, follow your brush with the electric dryer. Use the nozzle attachment for your blow dryer to help smooth out your hair. Move the blow dryer to-and-fro from the top to the bottom of each section in even motions. Once each section of the bottom layer of your hair is dry, let down another layer of hair from each section. Continue this process until all the layers of your hair are dried.[3]
- If your hair texture is on the straighter or finer side, you may be able to use cool air to straighten your hair. This takes a little longer than blow drying with heat, but it prevents potential damage to hair that occurs with the application of heat.[4]
- Use a round brush if you want a slight bend at the ends. If you want your hair to be totally straight, stick with a Denman brush. However, if you want your hair to curl slightly under or outward at the ends, use a round brush as you blow dry your hair. Using a round brush can also add extra volume at your scalp.[5]
- For maximum straightening results, a Denman brush is the best choice—it will give you a sleek finish from root to tip.[6]
- Wrap your hair around your head. This may seem like an unlikely way to straighten hair, but it actually works very well. Part your hair horizontally from ear to ear. Comb the front section down so it covers your face, the sides so they cover your ears, and the back straight down the back of your head. Starting from the top, comb the hair around your head in a circular motion, using a little tension to keep the hair smooth and taut. Continue from the top, working your way either clockwise or counterclockwise around your head.[7]
- When the last section of hair is wrapped, your hair should look like a flat beehive.
- Use neck strips to keep the hair in place, then sit under a hooded dryer anywhere from 45 minutes to 1 hour and 15 minutes, depending on how thick and long your hair is.
[Edit]Using a Flat Iron - Choose a flat iron. The most important element to choosing your straightening tool is to find one that feels natural and makes straightening easier for you. However, a good rule of thumb is to select flat irons that are thinner for short hair and thicker for long hair. Before choosing a flat iron, consider the thickness or type of your hair. Thicker hair may require a wider flat iron to straighten a relatively small section, as this hair type makes it more difficult for heat to penetrate the layers of hair. If you have finer or wavy hair, choose a lower heat setting to avoid frying hair.[8]
- Set your iron to the right temperature. Flat irons can heat up to or higher. If your hair is thick or coarse, you'll want to choose a high heat setting between . If your hair is fine or damaged, use lower heat between .[9]
- Test the heat by clamping your flat iron onto a piece of white paper. If it scorches the paper, it's too hot for your hair.[10]
- Start with dry hair. You can either blow dry or allow hair to air dry as you wish. An effective blow dry will enhance the smoothing process prior to blow drying. If you use a protectant spray, blow drying can actually make your hair healthier and easier to manage. This is largely due to the fact that blow drying prevents tangling that may occur when hair is allowed to air dry, and by brushing as you dry, the cuticles of hair are flattened making hair appear sleeker.[11]
- Separate hair into layers. Make sections on both sides of the head, one in the front, and one in the back. Lift and separate the top layers of each section, and clip them to your head, keeping them as straight as possible and leaving only the very bottom layer of hair free in each section.[12]
- You'll do this the same way you did when you were blow drying the sections of hair, except as you straighten you'll work with smaller subsections.
- Iron each strand. Starting with the bottom layer, select strands that are slightly thinner than your flat iron. You don't want hair to get pulled or broken by attaching to other parts of the iron. Gently move the iron from the top of hair, as close to your head as possible, all the way to the tips of hair.[13] Continue until each strand is straightened. Typically, you'll need to go over each strand at least three to four times, depending how curly your hair is.[14]
[Edit]Finding the Right Styling Products - Use a heat protectant. Even if you're trying to avoid using chemicals, there are excellent products available to help you achieve the sleek look you're after. One of the most important aspects of styling hair of any type is protecting it from the damage of heat. Heat protectants are available in a variety of forms, but they all coat hair and allow you to style without damaging your locks.
- If you're blow drying and flat ironing, you may need to reapply your protectant before you begin ironing.
- Curly hair typically responds best to a cream-based or moisturizing heat protectant.
- If your hair is frizzy, look for heat protectants that add weight to hair and avoid volumizing products.[15]
- You can even make your own protectant spray at home to ensure the product is 100% natural.
- Apply smoothing serums after heating. These are great products to keep hair smooth and shiny after styling, but it's very important that they not be used to protect hair from heat. In fact, serums will boil when heated, and they can significantly damage hair. Instead, choose a natural smoothing serum that utilizes natural oils to avoid adding unnecessary chemicals to your hair.[16]
- Choose the right shampoo and conditioner. In most cases, curly haired people need to find a shampoo that will clean their hair without drying it out. Look for shampoos that use gentle cleansers. The right conditioner is essential when it comes to straightening hair and maintaining a sleek, natural appearance. The chosen conditioner should add weight to hair, so the style holds. Look for shampoos and conditioners that are specifically geared toward straightening hair.
- It's best to find two shampoos and conditioners that provide the result you're looking for. Overtime, hair chemistry changes. When you notice your hair no longer feels better after cleaning, switch shampoos to reset your hair's balance.[17]
- If your hair is very damaged, consider adding a deep conditioner to your hair care routine once a week or every other week.[18]
- Research keratin treatment ingredients. Some of these products claim to be natural, but they contain harsh, damaging chemicals. However, if you choose keratin products with the right ingredients, they can offer easier to manage hair. Most of these treatments don't actually straighten hair, and those that do typically rely on the harsh chemicals. However, keratin treatments do make hair more manageable, significantly reduce frizz, and soften the tightest of curl patterns. Essentially, keratin products make it easier to straighten your hair.
- Before you buy, make sure the keratin treatment does not use formaldehyde, ammonia, peroxide, or thioglycolate.
- Many keratin products contain amino acids that are also great for hair. These are natural and preferable to chemical solutions as they improve your hair's health while making curls more manageable.[19]
- Using a shampoo and conditioner meant to tame your hair will help keep a straight style longer.
- For guys who want to straighten their hair, it's better to use one of those clamp brushes that fold up. It has a bristle side and then a comb on the other. Clamp your hair about two cm from your scalp and then blow dry.
- Don't straighten your hair when it's wet. It can fry your hair.
[Edit]Warnings - Make sure not to straighten too much on the ends because this causes them to become damaged.
- Use a heat protectant spray to prevent damage, if you straighten with heat.
[Edit]Related wikiHows
[Edit]References |
| How to Donate Clothing to Charity Posted: 07 Apr 2022 09:00 AM PDT Everyone has things in their closets that they haven't worn in years. But something you don't love anymore could be another person's new favorite outfit! To avoid throwing clothes away or having them clutter up your house, donate them to charities. Pick the right spot to drop off your clothes, decide what to donate, and ready your clothing for donation to make sure your items are put to good use for years to come. [Edit]Finding a Donation Center - Do an online search to check your area's options. Unless you plan to mail off your clothes to an online-only donation organization, it's best to stick with local donation centers. This will make it easier to transport the clothing.
- To find a local spot, type "clothing donation centers near me" or "clothing donation centers in Seattle" into your favorite search engine.
- Donate to Goodwill to support its employment mission. Most cities and even smaller towns have Goodwills. Goodwill is an excellent option for donation. They'll accept all your items, and they put most of their profits back into job-training and employment programs for struggling workers in the United States.[1]
- Give to the Salvation Army if you need a truck pickup. You can also find Salvation Army in most cities and towns in the United States. They may be best for families with really large donations, as they can pick up your clothes from your home.[2]
- Call homeless shelters to see if they need clothes. If you have homeless shelters in your area, give them a call. This may be a great way to get your clothing to people who need it most, right away. Call before dropping clothes off, however, as there may be better times for the shelter to handle drop-offs.[3]
- You should also call shelters for women and children who are victims of abuse, especially if you have professional women or children's clothing.
- Drop off clothes with your local religious institution. If you belong to a religious organization, they're likely involved in a running donation program. Check to see if they accept clothing, and when you can drop it off.
- Go online to donate unique types of clothing. If you have prom and wedding dresses, tuxedos, and older professional clothing lying around your closet, look for specialized organizations online. There are lots of foundations that are dedicated to collecting and selling just one type of clothing.[4]
- For prom dresses, try Fairy Godmothers Inc.
- For wedding gowns, visit the website of Brides Across America.
- For professional clothing, use Dress for Success (for women) or Career Gear.
[Edit]Picking Stuff to Donate - Set aside a whole day to clean out your home. Choose a day when you don't have anything else going on, such as a free Saturday or a day off work or school. Sorting through clothes can be time-consuming, and you don't want to get frustrated because you run out of time in the middle of your de-cluttering extravaganza.
- To make this process more fun, put on some upbeat music while you sort.
- Focus on closets. Closets, more than other spots in your house, collect things. These will be the areas of your home where most unused clothes and shoes are located. Start with bedroom closets, and then move to any hall or storage closets.[5]
- Sort your clothes into piles for keeping and giving away. If you haven't worn something in over a year, consider giving it away. If something doesn't fit you, it may also belong in the donate pile. Remember, something that's no longer perfect for you could be someone else's treasure.[6]
- You can make three piles: "Keep," "Give Away," and "Unsure." At the very end of your sorting, revisit the "Unsure" pile and ask yourself "will I really wear this again?" for every item.
- Choose items that are in good condition. While it may be tempting to give away that pair of totally ruined jeans, resist that urge. You're creating more work for donation centers when you give them items that can't be reused by other people.[7]
- For clothes that are in total disrepair, consider ripping them up to make cleaning rags. You can also look online for clothing recycling centers, which are different than donation centers.
- Give away professional clothing to help job-seekers. People who are out of work often rely on donated clothing for interviews. They may not be able to afford full-price suits, shirts, and slacks, so anything you donate could be put to very good use.[8]
- Professional shoes are also in high demand.
- Even out-of-date professional clothing can be useful. People may be able to have these items tailored and still spend less than they would on new professional clothing.
- Donate shoes. Shoes that are in good condition can be donated. Do not donate shoes that are out of shape or have worn soles though, as people won't find these useful. Shoes that have good soles, have kept their shape, are clean and have all fittings like laces still intact make perfect choices for donating. Sandals, boots and sneakers are also wanted items in charity stores.
[Edit]Preparing Your Items - Check the pockets for loose items. Make sure you're not giving away loose change, jewelry, or keys along with your clothing! It could be very difficult for donation centers to get these items back to you.
- Launder any clothes you plan to donate. Be sure you're not donating dirty or smelly clothes. Use an unscented detergent to avoid triggering anyone's sensitivities. Fold the clothes before you get them ready for transport.
- If you're donating items that need to be dry-cleaned, do this before you donate as well.
- Baby clothes and accessories need an especially good cleaning, but be sure to use detergents that are safe for babies' skin.
- Check on your donation center's rules. Some donation centers will ask you to put all your clothes on hangers. Others might want them neatly folded, and don't want you to give them any hangers. Go online or call to make sure you're sticking with the guidelines for the donation center you've picked.
- Do not leave pins or staples in clothing. Leaving sharp pins or staples in clothes could injure the people sorting them at the donation center. Unless safety pins are part of the item (like a pair of distressed jeans), remove these as well.
- If you've never worn the item, you can (and probably should) leave the tag on.
- Pick a large box or bag to transport the clothing. Use a large cardboard box, plastic bin, or heavy-duty trash bag. Once you've filled it halfway, test to make sure you can still lift it. Keep filling it up until it's full or just at your lifting limit.
- If you want your plastic bins back, you may want to stick with cardboard boxes and bags. Especially if the center is busy, they may not have time to immediately empty bins and give them back to you.
- Know the requirements for getting tax deductions. In the United States, you can receive a tax deduction for charitable donations, which could slightly reduce your taxable income. Itemize your clothing donation and estimate the "fair market value" of each piece. This means you'll need to determine about how much you could have sold the clothing for.[9]
- In order to qualify for deduction, your charitable organization needs to be legitimate. Read the IRS's publication on rules for donation to check the requirements for donation centers: https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p526.pdf.
- Ask the donation center for a receipt each time you donate to keep in your records in case of an audit.
- Most countries around the world have options for deduction in their tax codes. Contact your local government officials to find out the specific rules for your nation.[10]
- Goodwill provides a handy value guide that may help you itemize your clothing. You can find it here: http://www.amazinggoodwill.com/hubfs/docs/Donation_Value_Guide_-100115.pdf.
- Some charities provide bags for door-to-door collection. You can use this as a reminder to fill a bag for your trusted charity.
- Make sure you don't want the clothes before you give them away. If you have any doubts, make an "I'm still not sure pile" and come back to it later.
[Edit]Warnings - Don't place anything other than clothes in clothing bins. Breakables could break and injure collecting the items.
- Make sure you arrange a time to drop off the clothes or know that the place you are going to is open. Don't leave clothing at the doors. This encourages theft.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Containers such as boxes, bags, etc.
- Clothing
- Scent-free laundry detergent
[Edit]Related wikiHows
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Season Broccoli Posted: 07 Apr 2022 01:00 AM PDT Broccoli is one of the most healthy vegetables there is, but sometimes, it can taste a little bitter or bland. While you can always toss it into a casserole, stir-fry, or salad, don't be afraid to enjoy steamed, roasted, sautéed, or raw broccoli on its own. After you decide between cooking the broccoli and eating it raw, all you need are a few extra ingredients with which to season it. Once you know what goes well with broccoli, you can use your creativity, and make more daring choices by adding interesting ingredients, such as brown sugar or Parmesan cheese. [Edit]Seasoning Steamed Broccoli - Try a lemon-herb seasoning for something refreshing. For every 3 cups (525 grams) of cooked broccoli florets, you will need: 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) of olive oil, 2 teaspoons of lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon of garlic salt, and ¼ teaspoon of thyme. Mix your seasoning in a small bowl, then add some freshly-ground black pepper to taste. Pour it over your cooked broccoli, toss to mix, then serve.[1]
- Don't like garlic? Use regular salt instead.
- Use a lemon-garlic seasoning for something more zesty. For a small bunch of cooked broccoli, about ¾-pound (340 grams), you will need: 1 chopped garlic clove, 1½ tablespoons (22.5 milliliters) of olive oil, and 1½ teaspoons of lemon juice. Mix together your seasonings, then heat in a skillet over medium heat until the garlic turns soft and fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. Pour the mixture over the steamed broccoli, toss to coat, then serve immediately.[2][3]
- Go for sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds if you'd like a milder flavor. Cut the broccoli into florets first, then steam it. Drizzle some sesame oil over it, then sprinkle toasted sesame seeds on top. If you'd like, garnish the broccoli further with a sprinkle of thinly-sliced scallions.[4]
- Try some simple seasonings. If you don't feel like going fancy, you can choose 1 or 2 seasonings from the list below, and add them to your broccoli after you have already cooked it. Here are some ideas to get you started:[5]
- Fresh herbs, such as dill, parsley, or thyme.
- Chopped, sliced, or minced garlic.
- Lemon juice, lemon zest, or lemon slices.
- Season the broccoli while you are cooking it for something different. Fill a saucepan with ¼ cup (60 milliliters) of water, 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) of olive oil, 1 minced garlic clove, and ½ teaspoon of crushed, red pepper flakes. Add some salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste, then bring the water to a boil over high heat. Cut 1 head of broccoli into florets and add it to the water. Cover the saucepan with a lid, cook for 3 minutes, then turn off the heat. Let the broccoli sit for 2 to 3 minutes more, then drain the water, and serve it.[6]
[Edit]Seasoning Roasted Broccoli - Season oven-roasted broccoli before you start cooking it. Preheat your oven to 425°F (219°C). Lightly grease a baking sheet, then spread 24 ounces (700 grams) of broccoli florets over it. Add 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) of olive oil, 4 minced garlic cloves, and some salt and freshly-ground black pepper. Toss the broccoli to coat, then bake it for 10 to 12 minutes. Garnish it with the juice of 1 lemon and ¼ cup (25 grams) of grated Parmesan cheese.[7]
- Give it an exotic twist with garam masala and shredded coconut. Just before you roast the broccoli, toss it with some garam masala and shredded coconut. You can use as much or as little as you'd like. You can roast broccoli on a baking sheet in the oven at 425°F (219°C) for 10 to 12 minutes.[8]
- Get extra flavor presto with pesto! Preheat your oven to 425°F (219°C). Toss some broccoli florets with just enough pesto sauce to lightly coat them, then spread them on a baking sheet. Bake them for 10 to 12 minutes, ten serve immediately.[9]
- Add a little bit of fish sauce, lime juice, and brown sugar for a Vietnamese twist. In a small bowl, combine some fish sauce, lime juice, and a little bit of brown sugar. Roast your broccoli florets in the oven, then pour the mixture over it. Toss the broccoli to coat, then serve it. You can use as much of this seasoning as you want; you need at least enough to lightly coat the broccoli florets.[10]
- Give it a hint of spice and flavor with Parmesan cheese and red pepper flakes. Chop the broccoli into florets first, then toss it with some dried bread crumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Roast the broccoli on a baking sheet in the oven at 425°F (219°C) for 10 to 12 minutes.[11]
[Edit]Seasoning Sautéed Broccoli - Try lemon juice, honey, and chili flakes for something zesty. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, honey, and chili flakes. Toss it with the broccoli florets, then sauté the broccoli until it turns bright green and crisp. This works well for both fresh and frozen broccoli.[12]
- Give olive oil, garlic, and red pepper flakes a try for something spicier. Heat ¼ cup (60 milliliters) of olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of minced garlic and 1 teaspoon of read pepper flakes, and cook for 1 minute. Add 2 heads of broccoli, chopped into florets, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Add a splash of water, soy sauce, or chicken stock, cover, and steam for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, and serve.[13]
- Season sautéed broccoli with some Parmesan cheese for a tasty twist. Mix together 3 tablespoons (45 grams) of grated Parmesan cheese and 1 teaspoon of brown sugar, then set it aside. Toss 1 pound (453 grams) of chopped, blanched broccoli florets into a large skillet with 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of olive oil, 1 teaspoon of red pepper flakes, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and ⅛ teaspoon of freshly-ground pepper. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, then dust with the cheese and sugar mixture. Serve immediately.[14]
- Give it an Asian twist with light brown sugar and soy sauce. Chop 1½ pounds (680 grams) of broccoli into florets, then cook it in about 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) of water and 2 teaspoons of vegetable oil. In a small bowl, stir together the following: 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) water, 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) soy sauce, 1 tablespoon cornstarch, 1 tablespoon light brown sugar, ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, and 3 finely-chopped garlic cloves. Add the sauce to the pan, and cook for 1 minute, or until the sauce thickens. Garnish the broccoli with 1 teaspoon of toasted sesame seeds, and serve.[15]
- Season slow-sautéed broccoli with black pepper and grated Parmesan cheese. Heat 6 tablespoons (90 milliliters) of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Once hot, add 1 1/2 large heads of broccoli, chopped into florets, and sauté for 2 minutes. Add some salt and pepper, and cook over low to medium-low heat for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible, and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer it to a serving bowl, then toss it with 3 tablespoons (45 grams) of grated Parmesan cheese, and some more salt and pepper.[16]
[Edit]Seasoning Raw Broccoli - Season raw broccoli with lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Chop the broccoli into florets, rinse it, then place it into a salad bowl. Toss it with some lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Plan on using 3 parts olive oil to 1 part lemon juice. Here are some other ideas for seasoning raw broccoli:
- Vinegar, especially balsamic or red wine vinegar
- Lemon juice
- Garlic powder
- Curry powder, cumin, or garam masala
- Go simple with mustard, vinegar, and olive oil. In a bowl, stir together 1 tablespoon of seeded mustard, 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) of rice wine vinegar, and 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of extra virgin olive oil. Add a dash of salt and pepper, if needed. Toss the dressing over 1 head of broccoli, chopped into florets. To turn this into a salad, add 3½ ounces (100 grams) of crumbled feta cheese and a handful of pine nuts.[17]
- Marinate raw broccoli overnight for a tasty treat. Chop 1 head of broccoli into florets. Rinse it, pat it dry, then put it into a large, re-sealable bag. Add 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of olive oil, 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of lemon juice, and ½ teaspoon of salt. Zip the bag shut, shake it to combine, then leave it in the fridge overnight.
- Try a creamy yogurt-based dip. In a small bowl, mix together some low-fat Greek yogurt with a pinch of paprika, fresh chives, and minced garlic. You can dip the broccoli florets directly into this, or use it as a rich and creamy dressing instead. Put the dressing into a bowl, and toss the broccoli florets in it until they are evenly-coated. How much yogurt and seasonings you use is entirely up to you![18]
- Try some mayonnaise diluted with milk. Dilute some mayonnaise with enough milk until it is smooth, sort of like salad dressing. Pour it over chopped broccoli florets, then toss the broccoli to combine. You can turn this into a tasty salad by adding a handful of crumbled, fried bacon and some cashew nuts.[19]
- Broccoli goes great with salt and pepper, as well as garlic and onion. It also pairs well with Asian seasonings, Italian seasonings, and fish sauce.
- Season broccoli with citrus zest, and fresh herbs, such as rosemary or thyme.
- Avoid broccoli with yellow spots, as it is too old and may taste bitter.[20]
- Check for bright green leaves on the stalk. This is a sign that the broccoli is fresh![21]
- Broccoli ranges from bright green to dark green to purple. Rather than judging it by color, choose a head of broccoli that has an even color throughout. The florets should be tight and compact.[22]
- Broccoli will last in the fridge for up to 5 days. You can also blanch it, and store it in the freezer for up to 1 year.[23]
- Broccoli is available year-round, but it most flavorful between October and April.[24]
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary [Edit]Related wikiHows ↑ http://prettyprovidence.com/the-best-broccoli-seasoning-ever/ ↑ http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/steamed-broccoli-with-olive-oil-garlic-and-lemon-101153 ↑ http://www.realsimple.com/food-recipes/browse-all-recipes/garlic-butter-broccoli ↑ http://meljoulwan.com/2012/11/13/tuesday-10-dress-up-broccoli/ ↑ http://www.thekitchn.com/eight-ways-to-make-steamed-vegetables-taste-amazing-tips-from-the-kitchn-73707 ↑ http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/melissa-darabian/simple-and-satisfying-broccoli-recipe.html ↑ http://damndelicious.net/2014/09/19/garlic-parmesan-roasted-broccoli/ ↑ http://www.thekitchn.com/10-simple-ways-to-upgrade-roasted-broccoli-231617 ↑ http://www.thekitchn.com/10-simple-ways-to-upgrade-roasted-broccoli-231617 ↑ http://www.thekitchn.com/10-simple-ways-to-upgrade-roasted-broccoli-231617 ↑ http://www.thekitchn.com/10-simple-ways-to-upgrade-roasted-broccoli-231617 ↑ http://www.thekitchn.com/5-ways-to-make-frozen-vegetables-suck-a-little-less-189312 ↑ http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/aaron-mccargo-jr/spicy-broccoli-saute-recipe.html ↑ http://allrecipes.com/recipe/138016/brilliant-sauteed-broccoli/ ↑ http://www.chowhound.com/recipes/sauteed-asian-broccoli-30676 ↑ http://www.finecooking.com/recipes/slow_sauteed_broccoli.aspx ↑ https://zenhabits.net/broccoli-feta-salad/ ↑ http://www.fitday.com/fitness-articles/nutrition/healthy-eating/8-fun-ways-to-add-flavor-to-bland-vegetables.html ↑ https://www.lovemysalad.com/recipes/raw-broccoli-salad-bacon-and-cashews ↑ http://www.vegancoach.com/how-to-cook-broccoli.html ↑ http://www.vegancoach.com/how-to-cook-broccoli.html ↑ http://www.vegancoach.com/how-to-cook-broccoli.html ↑ http://www.almanac.com/plant/broccoli ↑ http://www.cookinglight.com/food/recipe-finder/in-season-broccoli |
| How to Make a Worm Compost System Posted: 06 Apr 2022 05:00 PM PDT Vermicomposting, or worm composting, allows you to compost your food waste rapidly, while producing high quality compost soil and fertilizing liquid. Best of all, it's self-contained and nearly odorless. [Edit]Making a Home for Your Worms - Obtain a worm bin. The worm bin is basically the home for the worms, and the place where they digest the organic material you will give them. Worm bins can be purchased from many online vendors, or from your local gardening or farm supply store.
- If you don't want to buy a worm bin, you can also build one on your own. Use rubber storage totes, galvanized tubs, wood, or plastic.[1]
 - Material: Rubber is cheap, easy to use and durable. Galvanized tubs are somewhat costly but will last forever. Wood will eventually be eaten, and plastic cracks easily, but either will do in a pinch. Some people prefer wooden compost worm bins because they may breathe better and absorb excess moisture, which can be hazardous to the worms. Just don't use chemically-treated wood, which may be dangerous to worms or leach harmful chemicals into your compost. plastic buckets now for sale by most hardware stores can be used - especially if you live in an apartment. Clean the buckets thoroughly with soap and let them sit for a day or so filled with clean water before using as a worm bin.
- Ventilation: Your bin should be well-ventilated, with several 1/8 inch (3mm) holes 4 inches (100mm) from the bottom (otherwise the worms will stay at the bottom of the bin and you may drown your worms). For example, you can build a worm bin out of a large plastic tub with several dozen small holes drilled out on the bottom and sides. Untreated wooden bins are naturally ventilated because of structure of wood.
- Size: The larger you make the container, the more worms it can sustain. Estimate 1 pound (0.45kg) of worms for every square foot of surface area. The maximum productive depth for your bin is 24 inches (61cm) deep because composting worms will not go further down than that.
- Cover: The bin should have a cover to prevent light from getting in and to prevent the compost from drying out. Choose or make a lid that can be removed if your compost is too wet. Use a canvas tarp, doubled over and bungee-corded on, or kept in place with wood. Burlap sacks also work well, and can be watered directly.
- Use four old car tires for a makeshift home. To make a four-tire wormery, create a base from old bricks or flagstones (must be flat and with as few cracks as possible).
- Place a layer of heavy newspaper on top of the bricks. Stuff four old tires with newspapers.
- Pile the tires on top of each other, with the first tire on the Sunday newspaper. Put some scrunched up paper or cardboard in the bottom to soak up any excess liquid.
- Fill the entire wormery with organic material (semi-composted is best). Add the composting worms (tiger or brandling species are best).
- Use a piece of board weighed down with bricks as a lid. The lid must be big enough to stop rain getting in.
- Harvest a tire's worth of fertilizer roughly every 8 weeks (during warm months).
- Place the worm bin in a cool area to protect it from excessive heat. If you're keeping your worm bin outside, consider placing it in the shade, under a tree, in the garage or shed, or along the side of the house.
- Try keeping the outdoor temperature in the bin between 30 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, along with at least 4 inches of moist bedding in the bin. This should be an ideal home for your compost-zapping worms.
[Edit]Building Your Ecosystem - Prepare the bedding for your worms. The bedding is the natural habitat of the worm that you're trying to replicate in your compost bin. Fill your bin with thin strips of unbleached corrugated cardboard or shredded newspaper, straw, dry grass, or some similar material. This provides a source of fiber to the worms and keeps the bin well-ventilated. Sprinkle a handful of dirt on top, and thoroughly moisten. Allow the water to soak in for at least a day before adding worms.[2]
- Over time, the bedding will be turned into nutrient-rich compost material by the worms. When you harvest the composted soil, you'll have to introduce new bedding into the worm bin again.
- Canadian peat moss, sawdust, (rinsed) horse manure, and coconut pith fiber are also great for composting.
- Avoid putting pine, redwood, bay or eucalyptus leaves into your bedding. Most brown leaves are acceptable in vermicompost, but eucalyptus leaves in particular act as an insecticide and will kill off your worms.
- Choose which worms you want. There are several varieties of worms that that are bred and sold commercially for vermicomposting; just digging up earthworms from your backyard is not recommended.[3] The Internet or local gardening club is your best bet for finding a worm vendor near you. A pound of worms is all that is recommended.
 - The worms most often used, Eisenia fetida (Red Wigglers), are about 4 inches long, mainly red along the body with a yellow tail. These worms have a healthy appetite and reproduce quickly. They are capable of eating more than half their own weight in food every day.
- Another variety to consider are Eisenia hortensis, known as "European night crawlers." They do not reproduce quite as fast as the red wigglers, but grow to be larger, eat coarser paper and cardboard better, and seem to be heartier. They are also better fishing worms when they do reach full size.
- However, as with any non-native species, it is important not to allow European night crawlers to reach the wild. Their voracious appetites and reproductive rates (especially among the red wigglers) have been known to upset the delicate balance of the hardwood forests by consuming the leaf litter too quickly. This event leaves too little leaf litter to slowly incubate the hard shelled nuts and leads to excessive erosion as well as negatively affecting the pH of the soil. So, do your best to keep them confined![4] of worms to start. Horticulturalist Maggie Moran advises, "It is ideal to start with between of worms, depending on the size of the bin. On average it takes of food each week to sustain a worm bin."|}}
[Edit]Maintaining and Harvesting Your Compost - Feed your worms digestible amounts regularly. The bedding of your compost bin is a great start, but the worms need a steady diet of food scraps in order to stay healthy and produce compost. Feed your worms at least once a week in the beginning, but only a small small amount. As the worms reproduce and grow in numbers, try to feed them at least a quart of food scraps per square foot of surface area each week.[5]
- Worms eat fruit and vegetable scraps; bread and other grains; tea leaves; coffee grounds; and egg shells. Worms eat basically what humans eat, except they are much less picky!
- If you can process your scraps before you introduce them into the compost bin, you'll find that your worms will eat them quicker. Worms go through smaller-sized food more quickly than they can larger-sized or whole food. In this respect, they are also like humans.
- Mix the scraps into the bedding when you feed the worms. This will cut down on fruit flies and will give the worms more opportunities to eat. Don't just leave the scraps on top of the compost heap.
- Maintain your bin. Keeping your bin elevated off the ground, using bricks, cinder blocks, or whatever is convenient will help speed composting and keep your worms happy. Worms are capable of escaping almost anything, but if you keep your worms fed and properly damp, they should not try to escape. A light in the same area will ensure your worms stay put.
- Sprinkle the surface with water every other day. You want your bedding to have the dampness of a wrung-out sponge.
- Add more cardboard, shredded newspaper, hay, or other fibrous material once a month, or as needed. Your worms will reduce everything in your bin quickly. You will start with a full bin of compost or paper/cardboard, and soon it will be half full. This is the time to add fibrous material.
- Pay attention to some composting "dont's". Composting bins are not difficult to maintain, but they do need to be looked after. Here are some things that you shouldn't do if you want a healthy, hearty ecosystem.[6]
- Don't feed your worms too much. If your compost bin starts to smell, it could be because you are feeding your worms more than they can process. When this happens, the bedding can also heat up, killing off the worms.
- Don't feed your worms any combination of the following. These foods are difficult for the worms to digest:
- Excessive citrus — no more than 1/5 of the total worm food
- Meats or fish
- Fats or excessively oily scraps
- Dairy products (eggshells are fine)
- Cat or dog feces
- Twigs and branches
- Harvest the compost once it's ready. After 3-6 months, you should have a fair amount of worm compost stored up in your bin. Now it's time to harvest. Keep in mind that you might not be able to save every worm when harvesting the compost. That's okay; by and large, your worms have multiplied, and there should be plenty to continue composting.
- Put on rubber gloves, and move any large un-composted vegetable matter to one side. Then, with your gloved hands, gently scoop a section of worms and compost mixture onto a brightly lit piece of newspaper or plastic wrap. Scrape off the compost in layers. Wait a while giving the worms time to burrow into the center of the mound. Eventually you will end up with a pile of compost next to a pile of worms. After harvesting, you should replace the bedding and then return the worms to the bin, do whatever you want with the compost, and repeat.
- If you prefer a hands-off technique, simply push the contents of the bin all to one side and add fresh food, water, dirt, and bedding to the empty space. The worms will slowly migrate over on their own. This requires much more patience, of course. It could take up to a few months for the worms to fully migrate to the scraps-side of the compost bin.
- Calcium carbonate works well to solve most problems. Be sure to use calcium carbonate (e.g., powdered limestone) and not quicklime (calcium oxide).
- A balanced diet makes for a healthy bin, healthy worms and a great finished product.
- You can throw your coffee grounds, unbleached filters, and used teabags (remember to remove the staple!) right in the bin.
- Green food increases nitrogen in your finished compost. Examples are: green grass, beet tops, carrot tops, philodendron leaves, fresh cut clover or alfalfa.
- Pre-composted cow manure is a great food for worms. Just be sure to bury it at least 3 inches deep. Look at the warnings before you start adding any type of manure.
- Shredded paper, egg cartons, cereal boxes, and pizza boxes all make excellent bedding (avoid glossy paper). Always soak household paper waste bedding for at least 12 hours before adding it to the bin, and thoroughly squeeze out the water first. Don't shred junk mail envelopes unless you remove the plastic windows! Worms won't eat plastic, and picking hundreds of shredded plastic window panes out of otherwise beautiful compost is a vermiculturist's nightmare.
- Egg shells in your bin increase the calcium content of the compost you produce. Worms also seem to like to curl up in them. To be most effective, eggshells must be dried out and finely ground (with a mortar and pestle or a rolling pin) before their addition to a bin. Use raw eggshells, not cooked.
- If you would like to collect the water (liquid fertilizer) produced by watering your worms, place a tray under the compost bin. Otherwise, the ground under the bin will become terrifically fertile. An elevated bin (either on bricks, or a bin with built-in legs) sitting in a tray of water will also prevent ants and other unwanted critters from getting into the bin.
- Brown food increases carbon and phosphate in your finished product. Examples are: paper, cardboard, wood chips, leaves, bread. If adding fresh lawn grass, be certain chemicals have not been added to the lawn. Lawn chemicals are deadly to the ecosystem in the bin.
- Finely ground and moistened grains (flour, oatmeal, etc.) are eaten the fastest, followed by fruits, grass, leaves, cardboard, paperboard (cereal boxes), white paper, cotton products, and magazines (slick paper). Wood takes the longest (up to a year or more).
- If you have two bins, it can be a bit easier to get at your compost. Fill one bin and start the next. When you want to get at the compost, move the un-composted matter from bin one to bin two and use all the finished compost. Bin two, the now-active bin, becomes full and then bin one becomes the active bin again.
- Remember that a worm bin is a tiny ecosystem. Don't attempt to remove the other critters living in your worm bin, they are helpers. However, do remove centipedes as they eat baby worms and worm eggs.
[Edit]Warnings - Large amounts of green feeds (grass, alfalfa, etc.) heat up quickly and should be added lightly.
- Fresh (un-composted) cow manure contains harmful pathogens and should not be used. It will also heat the bin to deadly levels and kill your worms.
- Go easy on the citrus rinds. You can add them, but remember that they're acidic. If possible, add only a little at a time with plenty of other matter.
- Powdered limestone will create carbon dioxide in your bins and suffocate your worms if the bins are not well ventilated. Use sparingly only if absolutely necessary and stir your bin every few days following adding.
- If cool temperatures are an issue in your area, move outdoor bins into a garage or shed during winter. If bringing your worm bin indoors during the winter is not possible, add a small heating pad as follows: push the matter away from one side, place the pad up against that side, then backfill onto the pad. Run the wire out to an extension, plug it in and leave the pad set on low - or medium in particularly cold weather. This will prevent freezing in winter.
- Don't allow your worm bin to heat up past 90 degrees.[7] You will cook your worms -- something no one should smell.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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