| How to Make a Fishing Lure Posted: 06 Feb 2019 12:00 AM PST Between the rods, reels, fishing line, bait, and boat upkeep, fishing can be a pretty expensive hobby. If you're a fan of fishing, you may want to be able to make your own lure in order to not have to spend money on expensive store-bought fishing gear. Fortunately, whether you opt to make a lure out of wood or out of common household items, making a lure by hand is a task that almost anybody can learn how to do! EditMaking a Lure out of Wood - Cut a block of wood slightly larger than the dimensions of your lure. For example, if you want to make a lure that is long and wide, you should cut the block of wood to be about long and wide. Use a small hand saw to cut the wood to your desired dimensions.[1]
- For best results, use a softwood, since these are easier to carve and are relatively buoyant. Examples of softwoods to use for making a fish lure include basswood, cedar, poplar, and balsa.
- Trace the intended design of your lure onto the block of wood. To make a simple lure design, draw long, thin ovals on each of the long sides of the rectangular block, then draw circles on the top and bottom squares of the block. When you go to cut your block of wood along these lines, it will be in the rough shape of a lure.[2]
- You can also draw a more elaborate design if you have a special one you want to use.
- You'll want the shape of your lure to ultimately be long and ovular, so the design you draw on your block of wood should be long and round as well. Don't worry about having a perfect design just yet; you'll be able to sand the lure down later.
- This design will be used to cut away the parts of the wooden block that you won't use to make your lure.
- Use a carving knife or a lathe to cut the wood block to fit your design. If you're using a carving knife, carve off the corners of the block first, then carve along the long sides of the block towards the smaller squares. Continue carving until the wood is roughly shaped like a lure.[3]
- If you're using a lathe, simply attach the block to the lathe horizontally and allow it to spin. Then, lay a wood rasp or carving knife along the block to trim away wood until the block comes to resemble the shape of a lure.
- Sand the lure down to the final shape you want it to be in. Once you've created a rough lure shape with the carving knife or lathe, you can now use sandpaper to trim it down to its final intended shape. Start with 80-grit sandpaper to sand down larger areas, then use 150-grit sandpaper to fine tune any areas that just need a small amount of sanding.[4]
- If you want to sand your lure down even further after all of this, finish with a 220-grit sandpaper.
- Drill 2 holes on the sides of the lure and 1 on the rear. The 2 side holes should be in the middle of the lure and near its "stomach," while the rear hole should be on the very end of the lure. These are the holes where you will install your hook hangers. Use a drill with a bit for the best results.[5]
- You can drill more holes if you intend to hang more than 3 hooks on your lure. However, in most instances, 3 hooks is more than enough.
- Fill the holes with epoxy and insert an eye screw into each of them. Use a small piping bag to insert clean epoxy resin into the small holes. Don't worry if some epoxy comes out of the hole when you insert the eye screw; simply use a cloth to wipe it off.[6]
- Apply epoxy sealer to the lure to make it waterproof. Use a cloth to rub the epoxy into the wood to seal it. Once the epoxy has been applied, leave the lure hanging vertically for 72 hours to allow the epoxy to finish curing.[7]
- Refrain from using lacquer, enamel, or water-based sealers, since these will not do a good job of actually keeping the lure waterproof.
- Attach hooks to the eye screws to finish your lure. Use pliers to attach split rings to the eye screws. Then, slide hooks onto these rings, being very careful to not hurt yourself on the sharp hooks.[8]
EditUsing a Spoon or a Piece of Aluminum - Cut the bowl end off of a spoon or an ovular piece out of a soda can. Use a hacksaw to cut off the spoon bowl, or use scissors to cut out a piece of a soda can in the shape of an oval. Cut this oval so that it looks like the bowl end of a spoon, if you can.[9]
- When cutting out a piece of a soda can, aim for the piece to be long for best results.
- Use a metal file to smooth out the edges of your spoon or aluminum. The edges of these items will be very jagged and sharp, so it's important to smooth them down as much as possible before working with them. You can also use an emery cloth to sand down the spoon.[10]
- Use a file with medium cut for best results. You can pick up this type of file at any home improvement store.
- Drill 2 holes on the 2 opposite ends of the item. These will be the holes you'll insert your hooks into. For best results, place these holes on the 2 long ends of your spoon or soda can piece. Although some lures have multiple hooks attached to them, lures made out of spoons or soda cans usually shouldn't have more than 2, so that they maintain the right weight and balance.[11]
- Use pliers to attach split rings to these holes. Split rings are essentially tiny versions of key rings that are used to fasten hooks and swivels to your lure. For best results, use special split ring pliers to install the rings, since the holes will be quite small. If you can't find these special pliers, you can also use needle-nose pliers.[12]
- You'll probably want to use a size 0 or 1 split ring for this lure.
- Attach a hook to 1 end of the item and a swivel to the other. Attach the hook on the larger side of the spoon, soda can piece, or piece of cork. Attach the swivel on the smaller end to keep the lure's movement from twisting the fishing line when you use it.[13]
- Use needle-nose pliers to attach the hook and swivel to your lure.
EditCrafting a Lure Out of Simple Items - Make a lure out of a piece of cork if you have a leftover bottle of wine. Screw eye screws into each of the horizontal ends of the piece of cork, as well as 1 eye screw on its "underbelly." Then, use needle-nose pliers to attach hooks to the lower eye screw and to 1 end eye screw and attach a swivel to the other to complete your lure.[14]
- If you like, you can also paint your lure to make it more attractive to fish, although this isn't strictly necessary.
- Flatten a penny and turn it into a lure if you have no other use for it. Use a rolling mill to flatten the penny into an ovular shape, then drill 2 holes into the 2 opposite ends of it. Attach split rings to each of these ends, then attach a hook to 1 split ring and a swivel to the other.[15]
- If you have a heavy sledge hammer and an anvil, you can also repeatedly hammer the penny to flatten it.
- If you don't have a rolling mill or a hammer, your best bet will either be to leave the penny on a railroad track and let a passing train flatten it, or take it to an amusement park that has a coin-flattening machine.
- Use needle-nose pliers to attach the split rings, hook, and swivel.
- Turn a length of paracord into a simple yet sturdy fishing lure. Pull about of the inner strands out of the paracord, then insert a hook into the paracord length. Use a knife to cut the length of paracord at the top end of the inserted hook. Then, use a blowtorch or lighter to singe the top of the paracord length so that it's fused together and won't slip off of the hook.[16]
- To make sure your paracord lure is secured firmly to the hook, take a piece of inner strand from a separate length of paracord and tie it around the center of your lure.
- Use your fingers to flush out the inner strands of the paracord after you're finished to make it more alluring to fish.
EditThings You'll Need EditMaking a Lure out of Wood - Wood
- Saw
- Sandpaper
- Drill
- Epoxy resin
- Eye screws
- Hooks
EditUsing a Spoon or a Piece of Aluminum - Spoon or soda can
- Metal file
- Sandpaper
- Drill
- Pliers
- 2 split rings
- Swivel
- Hook
EditCrafting a Lure Out of Simple Items - Piece of cork
- Penny
- Length of paracord
- Pliers
- Eye screws
- Rolling mill
- Knife
- Paracord
- Drill
- Split rings
- Hook
- Swivel
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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| How to Clean Cheese Cloth Posted: 05 Feb 2019 04:00 PM PST Cheesecloth was once only used to separate curds from whey in cheesemaking. Today, you can use it to make nut milk, prepare greek yogurt, or extract ginger juice, too. With all its various applications, it can be nice to save and reuse cheesecloth instead of buying new sheets every time. If the label on your cheesecloth says one-time use only, you may be able to wash it by hand once or twice, but it will start to break down very soon. If you invest in high-quality cheesecloth, however, you can hand wash it or launder it in the washing machine with your kitchen towels and reuse it nearly indefinitely. EditWashing by Hand - Rinse your cheesecloth in hot water immediately after use. Try to remove as many bits of food as you can. The faster you get to rinsing the cheesecloth, the easier it will be to get food and stains out of it. If you don't have time to rinse it thoroughly right away, put it in a bowl of hot water to soak until you can wash it.[1]
- Soak the cheesecloth in a baking soda solution to remove tough debris. If your cheesecloth has bits of food or stains that are difficult to get out with just hot water, add baking soda to a hot water soak. Use ½ cup (90 g) baking soda per 1 gallon (3.75 L) of water. Leave the cheesecloth in the solution for 10-30 minutes, depending on how severe the stains are. Rinse the cheesecloth thoroughly after you soak it.[2]
- Add white vinegar or lemon juice to the soak water to fade stains and debris. If you have extra stubborn debris or stains on the cheesecloth, add a stain fighting ingredient to your baking soda soak solution. Simply add of white vinegar or lemon juice per 1 gallon (3.75 L) of hot water along with the baking soda before you soak the cheesecloth.[3]
- You can also spot-treat a stain by dipping a toothbrush into the vinegar or lemon juice and rubbing it against the stain before you soak it.
- Be sure to rinse the cheesecloth very thoroughly after to wash out all the vinegar and lemon juice. They can attract fruit flies if not completely rinsed out of the cheesecloth.
- Boil the cheesecloth for 5 minutes for extra sterilization. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Place your cheesecloth inside and let it boil for at least 5 minutes. This will kill any lingering bacteria that may be left in the cheesecloth.[4]
- It's a good idea to boil the cheesecloth every time after you use it, whether you've just rinsed it or if you've soaked it to get rid of stubborn debris.
EditLaundering in the Washing Machine - Rinse the cheesecloth before you launder it to get rid of food debris. Run the cheesecloth under hot water immediately after you use it so the food stains don't set into the cloth. Hang it to dry until you are ready to put it in the washing machine.
- It's best not to put wet cheesecloth pieces in the laundry basket because it can encourage mold growth.
- Wash high-quality cheesecloth in the washing machine. If you have a cheesecloth that's designed for reuse and made from a high-quality knit material (like cotton), you can wash it with other kitchen cloths. Use a detergent meant for delicate fabrics. It should be free of dyes or perfumes, which could damage the cheesecloth or leach out into your food. Use warm or hot water in the wash and a cold water rinse with bleach.[5]
- Avoid using a fabric softener when cleaning your cheesecloth. The extra fragrance and softening agents will leave a coating on your cheesecloth and can leach into your food the next time you use it.[6]
- Cheesecloth that's labeled single-use cannot be washed in the washing machine. You may be able to hand wash it and reuse once or twice, but it's better to buy cheesecloth meant for reuse.
- Launder muslin with other towels in the washing machine. If you use muslin as an extra-sturdy cheesecloth alternative, you can easily wash it in your washing machine. Add it in the same load with your kitchen or bath towels. Check the label on your detergent to make sure it doesn't contain dyes or fragrances that could contaminate your food the next time you use the muslin.
- Avoid using fabric softener for your muslin, as it could cause buildup on the cloth that can leach into your food.
- The muslin will shrink after you wash it the first time.[7]
- Pick a lightweight unbleached muslin as an easy to clean cheesecloth alternative. Unbleached muslin will have a natural cream color.[8]
- Find muslin at your local fabric store. Tell them you are looking for muslin to use as cheesecloth for straining or squeezing.
EditDrying and Storing - Dry the cheesecloth in the dryer or outside in the sun. After you've washed your cheesecloth by hand or in the washing machine, put it through a hot cycle in the dryer. You can also dry it outside in the sun if it's hot outside and it can dry quickly. Hang it on a clothesline or drape it over a clean chair in direct sunlight.[9]
- Fold and store the cheesecloth in a plastic bag. When the cheesecloth is completely dry, fold it 2 or 3 times until it forms a small square or rectangle. Store it in a cool, dry place in an airtight plastic bag until you are ready to use it again.
- Reuse sterilized cheesecloth even if it's stained. It's natural that cheesecloth will get stained sooner or later. If the stain doesn't wash out in the laundry, it won't leach out into your food, either. Be sure to sterilize the cheesecloth by boiling it after you hand wash it or launder it in the washing machine. Dry the cheesecloth before you store it.
- If the stains really bother you, add bleach to your soak water the next time you wash the cheesecloth. Use bleach per 1 gallon (1.75 L) water.
EditThings You'll Need EditWashing by Hand - Baking soda
- White vinegar or lemon juice
- Pot
- Hot water
EditLaundering in the Washing Machine EditDrying and Storing EditSources and Citations
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| How to Do a Handstand Push Up Posted: 05 Feb 2019 08:00 AM PST Handstand pushups, also known as vertical pushups or commandos, are a great way to strengthen your upper body and core. They can also be very difficult and aren't something to just dive into! After you're comfortable with standard pushups and you increase your core and shoulder strength, you should start by doing your handstand pushups from a wall. Once you're comfortable, you can go right into a freestanding handstand pushup. EditKicking into a Handstand from a Wall - Place your hands from the wall. Get on your hands and knees so that you're facing the wall with your hands in front of you. Keep your palms either facing forward or turned out 5 to 10 degrees at most. Be sure to keep your hands a bit wider than shoulder width.[1]
- Always work on a matted surface whenever possible.
- Kick up into a handstand against the wall. Start by rocking forward and backward to generate momentum. Afterward—as you rock forward—kick one of your legs straight behind you, followed by your other leg. Press down on the ground to lift yourself up and rest your toes or the soles of your feet against the wall. Keep your back slightly arched. If you're having trouble holding yourself up, bring your legs back to the ground and keep practicing your kick ups before proceeding to the next step.[2]
- If it feels more comfortable, bend your first leg slightly after kicking it up.
- Make sure your head lines up between your arms instead of leaning it back against the wall so you keep your spine straight.
- Walk your feet up the wall if you aren't comfortable kicking up. If you've done all of the preparation for handstand pushups but find it scary to kick up against the wall, you can walk your feet up instead. Get on your hands and knees with your back to the wall and make sure your feet are from the wall. Now, place one foot against the wall, followed by the other, and walk your way up the wall.
- If you're walking your feet up the wall because you can't physically kick up against the wall, you should do preparation before continuing, as a pushup will likely be difficult.
EditMastering the Basic Form - Maintain tension in your core. After you're in a handstand position, it's important to establish and maintain tension in your core. Tighten your lower back and abs while continuing to breathe steadily. Focus on ensuring that your midline—the middle line through your body—is straight and stable so that you don't fall.[3]
- Never hold your breath while maintaining tension in your core.
- Lower the top of your head to the ground. Maintain the tightness in your back and abs and slowly lower yourself gradually. Start by only going a short distance and work towards eventually touching your head to the floor. Always try to keep your elbows bent as you lower yourself.[4]
- Make sure your fingers are spread apart and pointing straight ahead. When pointing your fingers, use your middle or index finger as a guide.
- Press upward from the floor after your head touches it. Once you've lowered yourself to a point you're comfortable with, press upward while maintaining the same tightness in your core. Keep your middle straight and continue raising yourself up until your elbows are fully extended.[5]
- Keep your neck in a neutral position looking ahead.
- Do 5 sets of 5 reps. Continue pressing yourself upward from the floor and lowering yourself to the ground. Each time your head touches the ground, 1 rep is complete. Do 5 consecutive reps to complete 1 set, and take a 5-minute break in between each set.[6]
- Don't push yourself too hard! If you're having trouble, decrease the number of sets or reps.
- Use a smaller range of motion at first. Slowly work your way to lowering your head all the way to the ground.
EditDoing a Freestanding Handstand - Place a folded panel mat in front of you. Lay out the mat in front of you where you plan on doing the handstand. That way, you'll have some padding if you fall over or lose your balance.[7]
- Purchase folded panel mats from fitness and athletics stores.
- Kick 1 leg up into your handstand at a time. Extend your arms out on each side of your head. Step with 1 foot forward into a lunge position and bend forward at the hips. Place your hands down on the padded mat so they're shoulder-width apart. Kick 1 of your legs up above you and then lift your second leg off the ground.[8]
- Keep your front knee above your ankle as opposed to your toes.
- Push upward using the heel of your front foot.
- Grab a plyo box and kick up to the ceiling if you want a greater challenge. Plyo boxes are used mostly in Crossfit and add extra support. Check that your biceps are parallel to your ears and extend one foot with your toes pointed to the floor. Start rocking backward and forward to create momentum. After gaining momentum for 2 to 3 seconds, kick yourself up with your feet, making sure that your back foot leaves the ground before your bent foot.[9]
- You may have to kick harder rather than softer—it's easier to decrease your speed to balance compared to increasing your speed to compensate for too little balance.
- If you over kick, turn sideways and cartwheel yourself to your feet.
- Be careful! Don't do anything you aren't comfortable with.
- Falling onto your neck could leave you seriously injured, paralyzed, or cause death.
- Never try a freestanding handstand pushup without mastering it from a wall first.
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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