| How to Wash a Dog Afraid of Water Posted: 06 Mar 2019 12:00 AM PST Bath time can be quite the ordeal for some dogs who are afraid of water or the bathtub and can turn into a game of chase all over the house. In some cases, you just need to get your dog used to water and reward it for staying calm during bath time. Use alternatives to water to clean and deodorize your dog if you just absolutely can't get them comfortable with a bath, or for a quick clean when a whole bath isn't necessary. Soon enough, getting clean won't be such a big deal anymore! EditKeeping Your Dog Calm in the Bath - Put a rubber mat down in your bathtub. Bathtubs are slippery surfaces for dogs, so lay down an inexpensive rubber bath mat to help your dog feel more secure. Some dogs aren't scared of the water itself, but don't feel comfortable in bathtubs.[1]
- Cut your dog's nails before bath time to help your dog have a more steady footing on the slippery surface.
- You can place a towel on the bottom of the tub if you don't have a rubber mat.
- Practice having your dog in the tub with no water. Place your dog in the bathtub without turning on the faucet or shower head. Pet your dog and say "good dog" while it stays in the tub.[2]
- Don't let your dog jump out of the tub and run away. You can use a leash to help keep your dog in place if it keeps trying to run away.
- Reward your dog for staying calm in the tub with treats. Keep telling your dog it is a "good dog" while it remains in the tub. Give the dog a treat when it calms down and stops trying to get out of the tub.[3]
- You can start out with short sessions of 3-5 minutes in the tub with no water to get your dog used to being in the tub. Keep practicing this until the dog has no problem being in the tub.[4]
- Have a friend or helper distract the dog with treats or peanut butter while you bathe your dog so it stays more calm.
- Pour small amounts of water over your dog until you can give it a full bath. Gently pour warm water with a container over your dog's legs and back once it is comfortable in the tub. Use a washcloth to clean the dog's face instead of pouring water on it.[5]
- You can do this in multiple short sessions of 3-5 minutes, gradually increasing the amount of time your dog is in the tub and how much water you pour on it.
- Hold your dog's chin and nose up as you pour water over the back of its neck and head to prevent water from getting in the dog's eyes or nose.[6]
- Give your dog a long-lasting chew toy or treat after bathtime is over. Get your dog to associate a completed bath with a reward by giving it something like a rawhide or bone to chew on afterward. Your dog will learn to tolerate a bath because it expects a tasty reward when bath time is over.[7]
- Once your dog is comfortable with you pouring water over it to give it a bath, you can try using a pet spray attachment for your shower. These attachments reduce the pressure of the water and let you gently spray water over your dog so you don't have to keep filling up a container.
EditUsing Alternatives to Water - Wipe your dog with pet wipes to clean spots of dirt off. There are many types of portable wipes designed just for pets. Use them to wipe off your dog's paws or fur when they get dirty instead of giving your dog a whole bath.[8]
- Avoid rubbing your dog's face or eyes with wipes as this can irritate them.
- Use freshening sprays or foams designed for dogs instead of water. Purchase a spray-on or rub-in waterless shampoo product designed for dogs. Follow the instructions on the product to apply it to your dog to clean it.[9]
- These types of products are good for a quick clean that doesn't require any water to rinse the dog clean.
- Waterless shampoos generally work best for smaller dogs with less fur.
- Spritz your dog with a water and vinegar mixture to deodorize it. Mix equal parts apple cider vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Spray your dog's coat all over with the mixture, then rub them dry with a clean towel.[10]
- Vinegar also helps treat dogs with itchy skin. Spray the mixture onto any spots that you see your dog is scratching a lot. The vinegar will even help repel fleas!
- You can use this mixture to clean your dog's ears as well. Use a dropper to squeeze a drop or two of the mixture into your dog's ears, then let the dog shake its head. You can also soak cotton balls in the mixture to wipe out the ears.
- You can also use apple cider vinegar to make a natural dog shampoo.
- Rub baking soda and cornstarch into your dog's fur for a homemade dry shampoo. Mix 1 cup (120 g) of baking soda with 1 cup (120 g) of cornstarch for a mid-sized dog. Sprinkle it evenly over your dog's fur and massage it in with a towel, then brush it out with a dog brush.
- This homemade dry shampoo will absorb grease and dirt from your dog's fur and eliminate odors.
- You can add 2-3 drops of essential oil, like lemon or lavender, to make your dog smell even fresher.
- Use 1/2 cup (60 g) of baking soda and 1/2 cup (60 g) of cornstarch for smaller dogs.
EditGetting Your Dog Used to Water - Take your dog to wade in shallow water. Lead the dog near shallow water at a beach, lake, pond, or kiddie pool on a leash and reward the dog with praise and a treat for getting near the water or touching the water. Let the dog make all its own choices about the water and do not try to force them into it.[11]
- Take your dog near the water for 5-minute sessions, then come back another day and repeat the process until they get comfortable being around water and getting wet.
- Try throwing a toy your dog loves into the water close to the shore to encourage them to wade in and retrieve it.
- Avoid rivers because the moving water can scare your dog.
- Play with your dog in the rain to make getting wet fun. Take your dog outside when it rains lightly and play fetch with a favorite ball or toy. Reward your dogs with treats and praise for playing and getting wet in the rain.[12]
- Dry the dog off as soon as playtime is over and you go inside so they associate being wet with having fun.
- Pour warm water on your dog's feet to get it ready for bathing. Introduce your dog to the water by filling a container with lukewarm water and pouring it on their feet until they are comfortable with it. Don't spray running water directly on your dog to avoid scaring them.[13]
- Use a leash or hold your dog by the collar to keep it from running away.
- Give your dog a treat if it remains calm while you pour water over its feet.
- Reward your dog with a treat and praise every time they interact with water. Reinforce any kinds of positive interactions your dog has with water. Dogs will begin to associate being wet with getting a tasty treat.
- Treat training is really effective for teaching dogs any kind of behavior that you want them to learn.
EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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| How to Distress Furniture Posted: 05 Mar 2019 04:00 PM PST Distressing is a simple process that makes newer furniture look antique by manually adding wear and tear. You can distress wood, laminate, or metal easily by yourself to make your furniture unique. While the project does require paint with a chalky finish and sealing wax, you can finish the rest with tools and supplies around your own home. Once you're finished distressing your furniture, you'll have a brand new piece that looks like it's been passed down for generations! EditDistressing Wood and Laminate - Use chalky paint for your furniture. Chalky paint has a matte finish, goes on with minimal prep work, and is easier to scrape off while you're distressing your furniture. Choose a paint color that matches the aesthetic in the rest of your room.[1]
- Chalky paint is not the same as chalkboard paint. Chalkboard paint is meant to be written on with chalk after it dries, while chalky paint just has an ultra-matte finish.
- You can buy chalky paint from any painting supply store.
- Add dings and dents to the furniture surface for an extra-distressed look. Adding marks to a table surface or furniture legs can make it seem older than what it actually is. Lightly tap your furniture with the end of a chisel or hammer to make indents in the surface. Make the marks random so it doesn't look like an intentional pattern.[2]
- Wear safety glasses in case any wood accidentally breaks off your furniture.
- Experiment with different tools around your house to see what kind of marks they make.
- Sand the furniture if it has a finish on it. Use 120-grit sandpaper to roughen the surfaces on your piece of furniture. This helps the paint adhere better so it's less likely to peel off or chip. Make sure to sand any surface you plan on painting so you get a nice even coat.[3]
- You do not need to sand unfinished wood furniture.
- Wipe the furniture with a damp cloth before painting. Wet a cleaning cloth with warm water and wring it out until it's damp. Wipe all of the surfaces you plan on painting to get rid of any dust or dirt that's on them. Use another cloth to dry any areas that are wet before you start.[4]
- Apply a coat of paint and let it dry. Dip the ends of the bristles in your paint so there's only a small amount on your paintbrush. Start from the top of your piece of furniture and work toward the bottom. Apply a thin layer of paint on the surface so it can dry fast and even. When you're finished with the first coat, leave it to dry overnight.[5]
- It's okay if you still see the wood or laminate underneath your first coat of paint. This can help add to the distressed look of the final piece.
- Paint a second coat onto your furniture and leave it to cure for 3-4 days. Once the first coat of paint has dried completely, put another coat of paint on your piece. Again, work from the top of the furniture down toward the bottom, and paint until it has a smooth matte finish. When you're done, let it dry for 3-4 days so the paint has time to adhere to the furniture.[6]
- Sand edges and common places of wear and tear with 120-grit sandpaper. Corners and edges are usually the first parts that wear away over time, so start by distressing them. Use 120-grit sandpaper to rub the dry paint off of the surface to expose the wood or laminate underneath. Apply light pressure so you don't accidentally remove more than you want.[7]
- Add more distress marks where your furniture touches the floor so it looks like it's been scratched up after moving around a lot.
- Wipe any dust away with a damp rag so you can easily see where you've already distressed the furniture.
- If you accidentally rub off too much of the paint, you may paint over the area again and start over.
- Seal the wood and paint with finishing wax. Wax acts as a sealant to help protect your furniture from any damage. Dip the end of a cheesecloth in the wax and spread it across the surface of your furniture. Work the wax into the surface in a circular motion until it's smooth. Continue waxing the entire piece of furniture so it's sealed.[8]
- Furniture wax can be bought from your local hardware or paint supply stores.
- Wax may take up to 30 days to completely cure, but you can use the furniture after one week.
EditAging Metal Furniture - Wipe any dust and dirt off with a cleaning cloth. Get the end of a cleaning cloth damp with warm water and use it to clean off your metal. Make sure to clean off all of the surfaces that you're painting so the paint can adhere well to them. Dry off any spots that are still wet.[9]
- Avoid sanding your metal since it will leave noticeable scratches.
- Paint 1 coat of chalky paint onto your furniture and let it dry. Buy a container of chalky paint and soft-bristled paintbrush from your local paint supply store. Dip the end of your brush into the paint and apply a thin layer to your metal furniture. Work from the top of the piece down toward the bottom until it's entirely covered in paint. Leave the paint to dry overnight so it has a chance to cure.[10]
- Make sure not to use chalkboard paint instead of chalky paint. Chalky paint has a matte finish and is usually used for distressing, while chalkboard paint is meant to be written on once it's dry.
- It's okay if the first coat doesn't cover the metal evenly since it will make your piece look more distressed.
- Apply a second coat of paint and let it cure for 3-4 days. Once the first layer is completely dry, put on another coat of paint until your furniture has even color. Once all of the exposed metal is covered with paint, let it dry for 3-4 days so the paint has time to settle.[11]
- Don't try to distress the metal while it's curing because the more paint may peel off of the metal than you want.
- Wipe areas with a damp cloth to distress them. Get the corner of a cleaning cloth wet and rub any areas where you want to expose the metal underneath the paint. Work around edges and corners since they're areas where distress naturally happens first. Apply light pressure to lift up the paint.[12]
- If you accidentally remove to much paint, pat the area dry and cover the spot with another coat.
- Seal the paint with finishing wax to protect it. Dip the end of a cheesecloth in the finishing wax and pick up a small amount from the container. Rub the wax onto the paint in circular or back and forth motions until it's clear. Coat the entire piece of furniture so it's protected and won't get easily damaged.[13]
- If your furniture feels waxy, keep buffing it out with a cloth until it doesn't.
- Wear safety glasses if you try to add your own wear and tear to your furniture.
EditThings You'll Need EditDistressing Wood and Laminate - Chisel or hammer
- Safety glasses
- Chalky paint
- Cleaning cloth
- Bristle paintbrush
- 120-grit sandpaper
- Finishing wax
- Cheesecloth
EditAging Metal Furniture - Cleaning cloth
- Bristle paintbrush
- Chalky paint
- Cheesecloth
- Finishing wax
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Clean an Airpods Case Posted: 05 Mar 2019 08:00 AM PST While most owners consider the cleaning of AirPods wireless headphones important, cleaning of the storage and charging case isn't as much of a priority. But keeping the charging and storage case clean is important for keeping your Apple gear looking and performing like new, and keeping it hygienic, too. A quick, thorough cleaning of your AirPods case will extend the life of your gear, get rid of all that unsightly pocket lint, and eliminate nasty bacterial growth. EditCleaning the Outside of the Case - Give the case a general cleaning. Start by using a scratch-free microfiber cloth for a general rub-down and preliminary cleaning. Wipe down the exterior of the case, and get rid of any easy-to-remove lint, dirt and wax.
- Dampen the cloth with a little liquid if necessary. You may use a little distilled water to help you along in your task; for more difficult grime, dampen the cloth using a small amount of isopropyl alcohol. But only use a very small amount of liquid. Dry is best, if possible.
- Your AirPods and their storage case are not resistant to liquids, so be careful to not get any fluid in the charging ports, or on the AirPods themselves.[1]
- Use cotton swabs to rub free any dirt or stains on the outside of the case. A swab gives you pinpoint accuracy, and lets you muscle through the gunk. If necessary, dampen the swab with distilled water to loosen dirt and wax. If you have really difficult-to-remove, caked-on dirt to contend with, moistening the end of a swab with a small amount of isopropyl alcohol should do the trick.
EditCleaning the Inside of the Case - Get inside the charging ports as well as you can. Use a cotton swab or cotton ball to clean the charging ports—where your AirPods sleep when they're not in your ears—and other nooks and crannies. You want to remove as much dust and lint as possible from the contacts to ensure that the case continues to charge quickly, and to prevent shorting out.
- Get into the grooves on the top of the case. Keeping these grooves clean will keep your case looking new. Dampen your swab with a little water or alcohol, as necessary. But don't use enough to soak the cotton, as you do not want drips falling into the electronics of the case. You can gently work wax and dust from these difficult areas with a swab that is only lightly dampened.
- Use a toothpick to work on more stubborn grime. This is where bacteria can really get a foothold. A plastic or wooden toothpick should really help you to clean out the cracks and fissures in the case, especially around the lid. Be gentle and methodical, though. Patiently work the waxy buildup free gradually without applying too much force.[2] Here are a few other useful tools that will help you keep your AirPods case hygienic, and looking and charging like new:
- Tape or 'tack. Use either one to pull dirt, lint, and wax buildup free; if you're using tape, use a good-quality product that will not leave behind adhesive. Press the piece of tape or lump of tack firmly into grooves to pull wax and general buildup from the cracks on the lid and top of the case.
- A soft eraser. Use it to rub stubborn stains and dirt away.
- A soft toothbrush. Only use soft or extra-soft, and put it to work gently scrubbing dirt, dust and lint from crevices and the Lightning connector.[3]
EditFinishing the Cleaning - Rub down the case again with a microfiber cloth. Your AirPods case should be looking almost new by now. The last step is a quick finishing polish using a dry microfiber cloth. Rub the case down gently and firmly, giving it a last going over to complete the cleaning process.
- Give your AirPods themselves a once-over. Wipe down each AirPod carefully. If there is gunk in the grilles, gently brush it away with a toothbrush. You can use a tiny amount of isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab for dried-on wax, but be very careful not to get it near the grilles and speaker elements.
- Place the AirPods back in their charging case. They'll be ready for their next usage.
- Do not use abrasives or aerosol cleansers to clean your AirPods or their storage case. Also avoid solvents other than 70% isopropyl alcohol. Any harsh or heavy-duty cleanser will likely mar the glossy finish of your AirPods and case, and could damage your ear.
EditThings You'll Need - Microfiber cloths
- Cotton swabs and cotton balls
- Toothpicks
- Distilled water, or 70% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol
- Tape, 'tack', a soft eraser, and an extra soft toothbrush
EditSources and Citations
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