| How to Make Focaccia Posted: 12 Sep 2019 01:00 AM PDT Focaccia is one of the best beginner breads to make because it's so forgiving and easy to shape. Combine bread flour with salt, yeast, olive oil, and water so it forms a wet dough. After you've rested the dough, add any toppings you like and let it prove again. Then bake the focaccia until it's golden brown and drizzle it with a little more olive oil just before serving. [Edit]Ingredients - 4 cups (500 g) of bread (strong white) flour
- 2 teaspoons (11 g) of salt
- 2 1/4-ounce (7 g) packages of instant (easy blend) yeast
- of olive oil
- of cold water
- Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
- Fine sea salt, for garnishing
Makes 2 loaves [Edit]Making the Dough - Put the flour, salt, and yeast into a bowl. Get out a large mixing bowl and put 4 cups (500 g) of bread (strong white) flour into it. Add 2 teaspoons (11 g) of salt to one side of the bowl and put 2 1/4-ounce (7 g) packages of instant (easy blend) yeast into the opposite side.[1]
- Instant yeast can be mixed directly into a dough without the need to activate it first.
- Mix in the olive oil and the water. Pour of olive oil into the bowl along with 1 1/3 cups of the cold water. Use your hands or a wooden spoon to stir the liquids into the flour. Keep mixing and add the rest of the water to form a sticky dough.[2]
- Knead the dough in the bowl for 5 minutes. Since the focaccia dough is so wet and sticky, you'll need to leave it in the mixing bowl in order to knead it easily. Use your hands to pull and fold the dough until it becomes smooth and stretchy.[3]
- If your hands stick to the bread as you knead, rub a little olive oil on them.
- To make the dough using a machine, put the ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer. Use the dough hook to beat the dough on medium speed for 5 minutes.
[Edit]Proving and Topping the Focaccia - Cover the dough and prove it for 1 to 2 hours. Lay a damp cloth or piece of plastic wrap over the bowl and leave the dough at room temperature. Let it prove until it's doubled in volume.[4]
- The dough will be puffy, but still stretchy once it's finished proving.
- Drizzle 2 baking sheets with oil. Get out 2 half-sheet rimmed baking pans and drizzle a little olive oil across the bottom of each. This will give the focaccia a crispy bottom crust and make it easier to remove them from the sheets.
- Half-sheet pans are about in size.
- Divide the dough into 2 portions and flatten each to fit the pans. Turn the dough onto your work surface and cut it into 2 equal-sized portions. Use a rolling pin or your hands to spread each portion into rectangle and place it into the prepared baking sheet.
- Use your fingers to push the dough into the corners of the pan.
- Top the focaccia with toppings if you like. Although classic focaccia is good with nothing else but a drizzle of olive oil on top, it's great when topped with with herbs or flavorful ingredients. If you want to top your focaccia, scatter thinly sliced or chopped toppings evenly over the dough.[5]
- Cover the focaccia and let them rest for 1 hour. Lay a damp cloth or a piece of plastic wrap over each baking sheet. Leave the focaccia to prove in the sheets for 1 hour so they rise just a bit.
- If you added toppings, the dough should puff up a little around them.
[Edit]Baking the Focaccia - Preheat the oven to and drizzle the focaccia with olive oil. Uncover the focaccia and press your fingertips into the dough as though you're massaging it a little. Then drizzle a little olive oil over the surface of the dough.[6]
- For a little extra flavor, sprinkle some fine or flaky sea salt over the dough after you've drizzled the oil.
- Bake the focaccia for 20 minutes. Put the baking sheets in the preheated oven and cook the focaccia until the loaves are completely golden brown. Touch the surface of the dough to ensure that it's dry and not doughy.[7]
- If the focaccia doesn't spring back when you touch it, return it to the oven and bake it for 3 more minutes. Then check it again.
- Slice and serve the focaccia. Turn off the oven and remove the baking sheets. Slide the focaccia loaves onto a large cutting board and use a chef's knife or pizza cutter to cut the bread. For an extra-rich flavor, drizzle a little more olive oil over the focaccia and serve it hot or warm.[8]
- You can cut the focaccia into uniform squares or irregular triangles.
- Although the focaccia will have the best texture the day it's baked, you can store it in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
- If you don't want to bake both loaves at the same time, wrap 1 of them and freeze it. To bake it, unwrap the loaf and thaw it in the fridge for 8 hours. Then stretch it and bake the focaccia as directed.[9]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Measuring cups and spoons
- Bowl
- Wooden spoon
- 2 rimmed baking sheets
- Kitchen towel or plastic wrap
- Electric mixer with dough hook, optional
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Protect Your Back While Moving Posted: 11 Sep 2019 05:00 PM PDT Moving into a new home, or helping someone else move, is a common way to strain or injure your back. To minimize your potential for back problems, make sure to lift every item using proper technique—keep the old adage "lift with your legs" in mind! You should also work to get your back and body in shape beforehand, and take care of them during and after moving day. It's also a good idea to use hand trucks and dollies, and to consider hiring pros if needed. [Edit]Lifting with Proper Technique - Plan and check out your route before lifting an item. Never pick up a heavy object without first knowing exactly where you plan to take it and how you'll get it there. Look over the entire route and make sure there are no obstructions along the way.[1]
- For instance, if your kid has already opened a box of their toys and spread them on the floor, it could be very dangerous to carry a heavy box through that area.
- Get close to the object and take a wide stance. Place your feet at just beyond shoulder width and stand as close to the object as you can. If you're picking up a smaller moving box, for instance, stand so that your toes are beyond the front of the box.[2]
- Taking a wider stance gives you a stronger, more stable base for lifting. It also makes it easier to lift with your legs instead of your back.
- Your goal is to reach out as little as possible to grab the item before lifting it.
- Crouch down with your back straight and head forward. Your back should maintain its natural, slight curve. Never arch your back to bend over top of the item. Also, don't look down at the item as you crouch—keep your head level and look straight forward.[3]
- Your feet should be flat on the ground with your weight centered over them.
- Arching your back and neck puts all the weight of the object you're lifting onto the muscles supporting those areas. Instead, you want the more powerful muscles of your legs and core to take on the weight.
- Keep your hands below your shoulders and grip firmly. Slide your fingers under the item, beneath its center of gravity. For a moving box, you may be able to instead grip your hands around the far corners, near the bottom.[4]
- Use your thumbs, fingers, and palms to secure a firm grip. If you can't get a good grip, don't try to lift the item.
- Tilt a lighter item forward to slide your fingers underneath if necessary, but don't risk pinning or crushing your fingers beneath a heavier item. Instead, use a dolly or hand cart to lift and move the item.
- Breathe deeply throughout and exhale as you lift. Don't make the mistake of holding your breath while you lift—this robs you of oxygen. Instead, breathe slowly and deeply throughout, and time a full exhale for the moment when you begin to lift the item.[5]
- Holding your breath naturally tenses your core muscles, which is helpful when lifting. However, you can—and should—engage your core muscles without holding your breath.
- Even a brief shortage of oxygen may reduce your lifting and carrying capabilities. Also, it's possible that you might black out and be injured.
- Push upward with your feet and legs to stand upright. Focus on drawing your power from the ground up. Push off straight up from your feet, then use your leg muscles to propel your body straight up. Use your arms to hold the item steady, and your core muscles to keep your body balanced and stable.[6]
- Your posture should remain in its natural curve throughout the lift. If you're arching your back and then straightening it out while lifting, you're at a much greater risk of injury.
- Keep the item at waist height as you hold it. The bottom of the item should be right about at your hips, with your hands at or just a little above that level—depending on where you're gripping the item. Do not lift the item above shoulder height without assistance.[7]
- Hoisting heavy objects higher than shoulder level is an easy way to injure your back.
- Instead of trying to move a box onto a high shelf to unpack later, for instance, move it to a table and unpack it there.
- Pivot your feet instead of twisting your back to turn. While holding the item, start every turn at your feet and follow with your upper body. Do not twist at the waist and then shuffle your feet to reposition them.[8]
- If you twist your back without moving your feet, you'll put enormous strain on your spine and its supporting muscles. Put your stronger leg muscles in charge of turning instead.
- Put the item down the same way you lifted it. Do the entire process in reverse: square up your body, with your feet a bit beyond shoulder width; use your legs to lower yourself down, keeping your back at its natural slight curve and your head pointed forward; and release your grip once the item is securely in place.[9]
- Make sure to keep breathing while putting the item down as well!
[Edit]Avoiding Lifting Heavy Weights - Pack smaller, lighter boxes as much as possible. For back safety, an average adult should not lift bulky items that weigh more than without assistance. So, instead of packing fewer, bigger boxes full of stuff, fill more, smaller boxes with your moving items.[10]
- When you do need a bigger box, for instance for an awkwardly-shaped item, fill the rest of it with lightweight items or packing material to keep it under .
- Get help lifting bulky items that weigh more than . Depending on your physical condition, you might feel confident lifting a box of books that weighs more than this. However, bulky or awkwardly-shaped items, like furniture or home appliances, should be lifted with helpers to reduce your risk of injury.[11]
- Lift in tandem with your helper or helpers when dealing with the heavy items. Make sure everyone uses proper technique and lifts at the same time—try counting out "1, 2, 3, lift!"
- Don't lift when you can push instead. Rather than carrying a wardrobe from one bedroom to another on the same level, for example, slide it instead. Use proper lifting technique to tip up one side slightly and slide a sheet of cardboard beneath it. Then, do the same with the other side. From there, you should be able to safely push the item across multiple types of flooring.[12]
- Push with your legs, keeping your back at its natural slight curve, your head up, and your arms bent. Don't arch your back when pushing.
- It's easier on your back to push rather than pull.
- You can also buy moving sliders to place under furniture and other heavy items. Look for them at home improvement stores or online.
- Use hand trucks, dollies, carts, and other moving tools. Basically, any time you can use wheels to your advantage, do so. Hand trucks are great for moving boxes and appliances—you just need to slide the platform under the item, secure the item in place with the straps, tilt back the handle to lift the item onto the two wheels, and push or pull the hand truck to your destination.[13]
- Hand trucks are often called dollies, although technically a dolly has a level platform and four wheels (meaning you have to lift the item onto it).
- You can rent hand trucks and other moving tools from home improvement stores and tool rental stores. If you rent a truck from a moving company, you may also be able to get some moving tools to use.
- No matter what moving tools you use, make sure you know how to use them properly, follow all safety recommendations, and don't exceed the maximum safe load. If you're not sure how to use something, ask for a demonstration when you rent it.
- Know your limits and hire movers if needed. Sometimes the wisest way to protect your back while moving is to let someone else do the lifting for you. If you've had a back injury, have recurring back problems, or have any current or ongoing issues with your legs, core, or arms, don't risk serious injury by trying to lift and move heavy items.[14]
[Edit]Caring for Your Back Throughout the Process - Exercise your back and entire body for 6+ weeks beforehand. If you're not already on an exercise program that includes strength training, flexibility, and aerobic elements, aim to start one at least 6 weeks before your moving day. The more in-shape your body is on moving day, the less likely you'll be to injure your back.[15]
- Consult your doctor before starting a new exercise program, especially if you live a sedentary lifestyle or have any existing medical issues.
- You may want to work with a personal trainer who can customize exercises to get you ready for moving day.
- Stretch before, during, and after moving your stuff. Do several back stretches and some general stretching for 5-10 minutes before you start moving items. Then, every hour or so, take a break, drink some water and rest for 5 minutes, and do some stretching for another 3-5 minutes. Finish off your day by doing some light stretches as well.[16]
- Hip twists, shoulder rolls, toe touches, and several common yoga poses are all good back stretches to utilize.
- Drink water during your hourly break, and also several times in between each break. It's important to stay hydrated while working.
- If you need to take more frequent breaks, do so.
- Try a back belt but accept its limitations. Many workers who lift heavy items for a living—like professional movers—use back belts on the job. In theory, they help stabilize your core and back muscles, thereby reducing your risk of injury. While this may be the case, it's also true there is inadequate scientific evidence to confirm this claim.[17]
- So, it's possible that it may not actually help to wear a back belt, but it also likely won't hurt to do so. It may be detrimental, however, if wearing it gives you a false sense of security, leading you to try lifting too much or with poor technique.
- Most back belts are made of sturdy fabric, loop over the shoulders, and are secured at the waist by adjustable hook-and-loop (Velcro) closures.
- See your doctor to deal with lower or upper back pain. No matter how well you prepare and how many precautions you take, your back will almost certainly be sore the day after moving. If you're experiencing outright pain instead of soreness, or if your soreness doesn't subside after 2-3 days, contact your doctor.
- To combat general back soreness, take it easy for a few days, alternately apply ice and heat to the area as needed, and use anti-inflammatory pain relievers if necessary. Ask your doctor for specific advice based on your circumstances.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Build a Carpenter Bee Trap Posted: 11 Sep 2019 09:00 AM PDT Carpenter bees are a destructive nuisance that dig nesting holes through fascia boards, decks, and other wood structures. Although they aren't dangerous, they do a lot of damage when they show up in spring. Fortunately, you can build an environmentally-friendly trap even if you don't have a lot of crafting experience. Gather a wooden post along with a few other supplies, then make tunnels for the bees to enter the trap. Install a Mason jar or another transparent object to hold the bees. Then, check back every day as the trap rids your home of the unwanted pests.[1] [Edit]Cutting the Wood - Purchase pressure-treated wood to make the base of the trap. Carpenter bees build their nests in soft pieces of wood, so avoid untreated lumber. Head to a hardware store or repurpose any wood scraps you have laying around. Pine and cedar are a couple of options for an inexpensive but effective trap. For an easy trap that doesn't require a lot of cutting, get:[2]
- A wood post at least in height.
- Pressure-treated wood often has a faint green hue and smells like oil. The wood may also have a stamp like "L P22" on it to indicate that it has been treated.
- You can design your trap differently if you wish to. For instance, if you're good with crafts, try cutting boards and nailing them together to make a square box.
- Put on eye goggles and a dust mask before working on the trap. Whenever you plan on cutting or drilling wood for the trap, cover up to avoid sawdust and wood shards. Keep other people out of the areas while you work. Consider also working outdoors or ventilating your workspace by opening nearby doors and windows.[3]
- Wear a short-sleeved shirt so you don't have to worry about loose fabric getting caught in your tools. Also, don't wear jewelry and tie back your hair if it is long.
- Cut the wood post until it's in length. If you're working with a long post, trim it to size first. Measure up from one end of the post and mark the distance in pencil. Then, use a circular saw or handsaw to cut horizontally across the post. Set aside the part you aren't planning on using for the trap.[4]
- The post doesn't have to be very long in order to direct bees into the trap. In fact, leaving the post relatively small makes the trap easier to handle.
- If you have excess wood to spare, you could make additional traps with the material you cut.
- Measure and mark a diagonal angle at the top of the post. Measure about up along one side of the post. Make another mark about up the opposite side of the post. Use a ruler to draw a diagonal line connecting the points. The line will be at about a 45-degree angle and is used to cut the top part of the trap.[5]
- Making this angle helps later with creating tunnels for the bees to enter. You could also do it without cutting the post at an angle, but it makes the tunnels trickier to line up.
- If you don't wish to do this, you could leave the top alone and instead make a tunnel all the way through the post. Then, cover the top hole with a plank so the bees can't escape that way.
- Use a saw to trim the post along the traced line. Hold the post still again. To make the cutting process easier if you're using a handsaw, pin it to a workbench or sawhorse with a bench clamp. If you're using a circular saw, hold the wood so the saw slices across the line you made. This will leave the post with an angled top you can use to hang the trap later.[6]
- The angled top prevents light from filtering into the trap's tunnels, so the bees won't have as much of an opportunity to escape.
- If you don't plan on cutting the top, try nailing a board to it. The board will cover up any holes as well as give you a place to safely install a hanging mechanism.
[Edit]Creating the Bee Tunnels - Drill through the bottom of the post using a bit. Flip the post over so the flat, bottom edge faces upward. Position the drill bit directly over the center of the post. Carefully drill straight down, creating a hole about deep.[7]
- You can measure your drill bit ahead of time to ensure the hole is the correct length. If the drill bit is too long, mark it with tape so you know when to stop drilling.
- Mark entry holes up the sides of the post. Measure up from the bottom edge of the post on one side. The holes also need to be about from the sides of the post in order to keep your trap sturdy. Mark the spot in pencil, then repeat the process on the other 3 sides.[8]
- Make sure the marks are well-positioned before you start drilling! These will be the entrance points for the bees, so if they aren't in the right spot, they won't connect.
- Position a drill bit diagonally on the mark. Lay the post flat and start with one of the marks you made on the sides of the trap. Point the drill bit up toward the top of the trap at a 45-degree angle. If you angle the drill properly, the new holes will end up connecting to the center tunnel, giving the bees nowhere to go but down.[9]
- The tunnels have to be angled upward in order to prevent light from getting into the trap. It causes the bees to head toward the clear jar placed at the bottom of the trap.
- Drill through the marks you made on the trap's sides. Drill all the way in until you reach the center of the trap. The hole needs to be about deep. You will eventually feel the drill bit reach the initial tunnel you made through the bottom of the post. Drill through the remaining sides make a few entrances for the bees.[10]
- Drill the other marks as well to make multiple ways for the bees to crawl into your trap.
- If you aren't able to connect the tunnels together, don't worry. You could try widening the holes or drilling down through the top of the post to connect them all.
[Edit]Installing the Trap - Twist the lid off of a Mason jar. A half-pint jar has a lid about wide, the perfect size for your trap. Turn the metal ring on top of the jar counterclockwise by hand to free the lid. The lid is the flat piece of metal inside the ring. Pick up the lid and set it aside.[11]
- If you don't want to use a breakable jar, get a few plastic soda bottles instead. Try cutting open one bottle and stapling the bottom half to the trap. Fit a second bottle half over it to hold the bees.
- Use a marker to mark the spots you need to punch through the lid. Use a ruler to measure the lid's diameter. Find where the center is and mark it. Then, calculate the halfway points between the center and the rim of the lid. Mark these spots as well.[12]
- Make sure you measure across the center of the lid. Hold the ruler very still until you're done so the spots are properly aligned.
- The center marking will be an opening for the bees to crawl through. The other spots are there to secure the lid to the trap.
- Use a metal punch to poke holes through the lid. Set the lid on top of a piece of scrap wood. Then, position a metal punch over one of the marks. Hammer the opposite end of the punch until it breaks through the lid. Repeat this with the other marks you made..[13]
- The punch can damage any surface underneath it. Work over something you don't plan on keeping, such as a piece of scrap wood.
- Widen the center hole using a metal drill bit. This time you're going to need to drill through a harder material, so make sure you're using a heavy-duty bit designed to cut through metal. Drill down through the center hole to widen it. Keep widening it until it matches the tunnel hole you made on the bottom of the wood post.[14]
- Be careful not to damage anything underneath the thin lid. Hold it down firmly against a piece of scrap wood that the drill bit can pass through without issue. Throw away the scrap wood when you're done.
- If you use the wrong drill bit, it could burn out your drill as well as ruin the lid, so choose carefully.
- Screw the lid to the underside of the trap. Place the lid back inside the Mason jar's ring. Then, position the ring over the hole on the bottom edge of the wood post. Fit a pair of wood screws into the smaller holes you punched through the lid. Finish securing the lid by using a screwdriver to turn the screws clockwise.[15]
- Screw the holes straight into the wood so they don't end up crossing into the bee tunnel. Then, make sure the lid is securely in place before attempting to position a Mason jar on it.
- Make a pilot hole through the trap's top if you plan on hanging it. You will need a wood drill bit approximately in size. Flip the trap over so the Mason jar side is facedown. Position your drill bit along the center of the trap, then drill down into it. This hole only needs to be short so it doesn't reach the bee tunnels you made earlier.[16]
- The length of the hole depends on the length of the eye screw you plan on using. It needs to be the same length as the screw. Normally, it will be or less.
- If you made your bee trap differently, be careful not to drill all the way through the wood. For instance, if you made a box using flat boards, don't let the drill pierce through the top of the trap.
- Twist an eye screw into the hole to hang the trap. Use a screw the same length as the hole you made. Set the screw end in the hole, then turn it clockwise until it feels tight and sturdy. You can then hang the trap by threading a rope or a hanging hook through the screw's eye. Find space for the trap near your deck or other spots carpenter bees tend to invade.[17]
- Hang the trap near where you notice bees or near spots you think they might visit. With a screw hook, you can hang up a trap just about anywhere.
- If you're not planning on hanging the trap, set it up on a stable surface near where the bees gather. Put it up high, such as on a table or railing.
- Fit the Mason Jar onto the lid to complete the trap. After hanging up the trap, move the Mason jar toward the lid. It should fit into the ring holding the lid in place. Turn the jar counterclockwise until it hangs in place. When the jar fills with bees, you can unscrew it again to clean it out.[18]
- The jar is where the bees go when they want to leave. The light attracts them there. It works the same way whether you use a jar, plastic bottles, or another clear material.
- To identify carpenter bee nests, look for holes and sawdust in wood. Spray a powder insecticide into the holes, then plug them up after the bees are gone.
- Carpenter bees look a lot like harmless honeybees. Tell them apart by looking for the black, shiny abdomen carpenter bees have.
- Add honey or sugar water to the Mason jar for bait. It will make the trap more effective.
- To drown the bees quickly, add a couple of drops of liquid dish soap to water. When you empty the trap, replace the water.
- There are many ways to customize a bee trap, such as by using different material or making it a different shape. You could also make a bigger trap if you need to.
- For a simpler but flimsier trap, try cutting a big soda bottle in half. Push the cap end into the opposite end.
[Edit]Warnings - Power tools and saws are dangerous, so always use common safety practices. That includes wearing eye goggles and a dust mask.
- The trap could possibly catch other types of bees pollinating nearby flowers and plants. To avoid this, set up the trap only near wood with carpenter bee nests.
- Carpenter bees are not aggressive but can sting you if they feel threatened. Be careful when approaching their nests.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Circular saw or handsaw
- Drill
- wood drill bit
- wood drill bit
- metal drill bit
- Mason jar
- Screwdriver
- metal screws
- wood post
- Ruler
- Pencil
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
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