How to Make a Fake Scar Posted: 29 Oct 2019 01:00 AM PDT An authentic looking Halloween costume can be tough, especially when the most realistic costumes and makeup are outside your price range. Even if you don't have a snazzy costume, changing the appearance of your face to something more spooky can be even better than the expensive alternatives. With a little bit of time and effort, your friends and family won't be able to tell who the person is behind the scars. [Edit]Using Liquid Collodion - Gather your supplies. This simple scar imitation can be accomplished without much preparation and in a relatively short amount of time. The only ingredients you will need are liquid collodion and scar colored makeup, both of which can be found at most costume, drug, or department stores.
- Collodion is a liquid compound that is highly adhesive and frequently used in medicine or special effects makeup.[1]
- Test your ingredients. Collodion is a component that can be harsh on the skin, so you should test a small area before making your main application. This way you can be sure you do not have a negative reaction.
- You should also test the color of the makeup as well. Try a little bit on the location you intend to use it. You natural skin color might offset the makeup color, making it look less authentic.
- Clean the soon to be "scarred" area. When your body is clean, FX makeup bonds better to your skin, creating a better seal between you and the adhesive. A baby wipe, or mild soap and warm water, will prep your skin for your new scar.[2]
- Wait until you skin is completely dry before applying your collodion.
- Imagine your scar pattern. You may need to use a mirror if you will be applying the makeup to your face, but looking at the part of your body you will be applying your scar effects to, image the scar pattern you desire.
- For more complicated scar patterns, you may want to use an eyebrow pencil to faintly sketch out the pattern before hand.
- You might consider hash-mark patterns, jagged lines, or menacing x shaped scars for your look.
- Apply the liquid collodion in layers. As the collodion dries, it will draw your skin together and provide the appearance of a scar. For a more pronounced effect, you can use multiple applications. You should allow each application to dry before adding another layer of collodion.
- Applying the liquid collodion to areas where you have tight skin could diminish the effect.
- Add color with makeup. Depending on your skin tone the color you use to tint your fake scar tissue will vary greatly. Your makeup can be applied over top or underneath your collodion scar.
- Underneath applications of makeup will require you to put on the makeup before your liquid collodion, first allowing the makeup to dry completely, if necessary.
- Remove your scar when finished. Before trying to remove the scar, you should take a baby wipe and remove any makeup from your prosthetic scar. You should be able to peel off the your false scar without too much trouble with your fingers. If you are having difficulty removing your scar tissue, apply a prosthetic makeup remover, like Super Solve or Isopropyl Myristate.[3]
[Edit]Making a Scar with Gelatin - Ensure you have all the necessary items. The gelatin itself that you will need is a cost effective and easy to use substance, and when applied correctly, can give the appearance of scars, wounds, or burns to your skin. To make your gelatin scar, you'll need:
- Gelatin applicator (popsicle stick/makeup spatula)
- Glycerin
- Gelatin (or ready-made gelatin)
- Hot water
- Makeup (scar color)
- Mixing cup
- Outline your new lines. You should have a firm idea of where your new lines of your scars will run on your body. Gelatin is very friendly when it comes to removal, so you don't have to worry about pain if you apply it to an area with hair.
- For more artistic scar patterns, gently drawing guide lines with an eyebrow pencil can be very helpful.
- You might consider hash-mark patterns, jagged lines, or menacing x shaped scars for your look.
- Ready your canvas. Whether this is your face or your arm, a clean and dry surface is best for applying your fake scar. A baby wipe works wonders, but if you don't have that available, a mild soap and warm water will do the job just as well.[4]
- Prepare your gelatin. The simplest ratio you can use for mixing up your gelatin scar solution is 1 part gelatin to 1 part hot water in your mixing cup. The problem with this sort of ratio is that the gelatin can get dried out and shrink, putting you at risk for losing your prosthetic scar.[5] Many FX makeup artists recommend adding some glycerin to prevent your scar from drying out too fast.
- Add ¼ teaspoon glycerin to your 1:1 gelatin/hot water mixture.[6]
- Stir your gelatin mixture thoroughly, otherwise you might have bubbles form in the mixture and spoil the effect.
- Be prepared to move quickly after preparing your gelatin; gelatin solidifies very quickly.
- Heat up water for ready-made FX gelatin. In your mixing cup, bring enough water to surround and heat your gelatin to a piping-hot temperature. Ready made gelatin usually comes in a bottle, which you have to heat to liquefy. Once it is liquid and at a safe temperature, you can apply it to your body.
- It's always best to test gelatin heated this way on a safe part of your body, like on your hand or forearm, before applying a large quantity of it to your body.
- Apply your gelatin mixture. Using your gelatin applicator, move the gelatin over the surface of your skin in the fashion that imitates the kind of scar you want to have. Due to the fact that your gelatin will not be malleable for long, you will need to apply your scar to your body fast.[7]
- If you are trying to create a scar effect over a large portion of your body, or if you are trying to create an intricate scar pattern, you may need to prepare your gelatin in several batches.
- While your gelatin is in the final stages of setting, you can tap it gently to create a puckered effect.
- Stain your scar to scare. Now that your gelatin scar is fully set, add some makeup to your scar to make it look more realistic. Foundation or concealer are great for blending the edges of the false scar, but a dash of something more livid can make your scar look like a fresh wound.
- Seal your makeup, if necessary. If you plan on an exciting night out, or if you're the type that can't keep your hands off yourself, you might want to consider using a setting spray to keep your makeup on your gelatin. A smear caused by an accidental gesture will leave your look less than believable.
- Remove when finished. Gelatin applied directly to the skin can be removed easily by peeling it off. Any stubborn bits can be loosened with warm water and a mild soap. This will ensure that all makeup and gelatin have been removed.
[Edit]Using Scar Wax - Collect the necessary items. Many professionals, including theatre companies, often use a special kind of wax, called nose wax or scar wax, to give the appearance of a cut or wound when needed.[8] The following supplies can be found at most costume shops or online costume supply providers:
- Makeup (scar color)
- Nose wax/scar wax
- Spirit gum
- Spirit gum remover
- Wax applicator (Popsicle stick, palette knife, etc.)
- Clean your face. Any oil, dirt, or grime on your face can make your wax bond imperfectly to your face. To prevent your scar wax from peeling off or coming loose over the course of your activities, use mild soap and water to make sure the place you will be applying your wax scar is clean.
- Check for allergies. Be sure that you verify the ingredients used in your scar-making products to prevent an allergic reaction. If you have sensitive skin, you should test a small amount of your products somewhere on your body before applying your scar.
- Avoid scarring areas that move. Movement of your body causes your skin to bunch and fold, which will put stress on your scar makeup while you are in costume. Bony areas, like the nose, chin, cheekbones, and forehead, are more likely to keep still and leave your scar looking pristine.[9]
- Apply your adhesive. Some scar wax may be sticky enough, and the part of your body stationary enough, that you won't need to add adhesive to keep it stuck. Even if you don't think your scar is in danger of being knocked loose, using a little spirit gum to the back of your scar will help keep it in place for a few hours, in most cases.[10]
- Apply your adhesive to the area of your body the scar will cover, leaving it slightly tacky.
- Take a small amount of wax initially. Depending on the brand you have purchased, there may be some small differences in wax consistency, but scar wax is often thick, much like a putty. It can be sold in tubes, which can be squeezed to dispense your wax, or tubs, which you will have to scrape/scoop with your applicator.
- Professionals often break off a small piece of wax to work with at first, adding more as necessary.
- As this kind of wax can be quite sticky, you may want to cover your applicator and fingers with a little mineral oil to make the process more efficient. Vaseline will also keep the wax from sticking to your fingers.
- Warm the wax. At room temperature, your wax will likely be stiff and inflexible. You can make the wax more pliable and easier to shape by kneading it with your hands, warming it in the process. You should do this until the wax is soft, but not so much that the wax loses its ability to hold shape.[11]
- Create the rough dimensions. Now that your warmed up wax is ready to go, form it into the general shape of the scar you wish it to become. A long, thin scar can be made by rolling your wax into the shape of a thick thread. Start by smoothing the entire scar on your body into a neutral line on top of your adhesive. You can give the scar texture and depth by building up your wax-line, or by using precision tools.[12]
- Blend your scar for flourish. Even the most convincing shaped wax might not be believable if you don't blend your new disfigurement with its surrounding skin. Liquid foundation is a good option to fill in seams between your wax and face, but you should at least use some makeup to give it the appearance of your complexion.[13]
- Revert to your normal self. Apply your spirit gum (or other adhesive solvent) to the area around your scar and allow it to sit for a short while. When your scar begins to feel loose, you can peel it from your face, cleaning any residue leftover with either warm water and mild soap, or a baby wipe.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using Liquid Collodion - Liquid collodion
- Eyebrow pencil (optional)
- Makeup (scar colored)
[Edit]Making a Scar with Gelatin - Gelatin applicator (popsicle stick/makeup spatula)
- Glycerin
- Gelatin (or ready-made gelatin)
- Hot water
- Makeup (scar color)
- Mixing cup
[Edit]Using Scar Wax - Makeup (scar color)
- Nose wax/scar wax
- Spirit gum
- Spirit gum remover
- Wax applicator (Popsicle stick, palette knife, etc.)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Buy a Used Motorcycle Posted: 28 Oct 2019 05:00 PM PDT If you're toying with the idea of getting a motorcycle but don't want to spend an arm and a leg, buying one used is the way to go. However, there are a few considerations you'll want to make in order to ensure that the bike you've got your eye on is worth the asking price, such as its general condition, mileage, and performance during a cold test ride. Knowing what to look for will help you find a motorcycle in good working condition that will hold up to countless miles of fun and adventure out on the open road. [Edit]Hunting for Used Motorcycles - Look for bikes that are appropriate for the type of riding you plan on doing. Before you begin comparing prices or drooling over various models, think about how you'll actually be using your motorcycle. Most cycle enthusiasts tend to use their bikes for one of several purposes: recreational riding/commuting, touring, motorsports, or some combination thereof. Knowing which riding style best applies to you will help you find a bike that's suited for your specific needs and preferences.[1]
- Ask yourself what kind of you imagine when you picture yourself owning a motorcycle. Are you just interested in cruising around your neighborhood? Do you plan on loading it up for a road trip instead of your usual vehicle?
- A 1000cc superbike can offer high-speed thrills on the track, for example, but it probably isn't the most practical way to get to work.
- Buy from a reputable dealership if at all possible. Since auto dealerships only turn a profit if they can inspire enough confidence in their customers to make a sell, they have a vested interest in stocking quality, well-maintained items. They also generally offer some type of warranty, which will keep you from getting stuck with the cost of repairs in the event that something goes wrong in your first few months of ownership.[2]
- Many dealerships can also perform ownership history checks on any of their units. That way, you'll know that the bike you've got your eye on hasn't been stolen or written off as non-resellable by an insurance company.
- At a dealership, you'll be paying for peace of mind as much as a product. The asking prices may not always be as attractive as those in private listings, but at least you'll know that your purchase comes guaranteed.
- Browse online automobile marketplaces for specific makes and models. Used motorcycles are constantly being listed on e-commerce sites like eBay. You can also seek out private sales online through resources like Cycle Trader or the motorcycle section on Autotrader, which allow you to fine-tune your search based on parameters like make, model, year, and mileage.[3]
- If you want to avoid the cost and potentially tricky logistics of long-distance shipping, use local trading sites like Craigslist or Facebook Market to look through listings for used bikes in your area.
- Research the average price range of the bike you're interested in. Run a search for a particular make, model, and year and pull up results from multiple websites. Pricing your options head-to-head will help paint a picture of what the bike is worth given its age and history of use. From there, you can start thinking about whether it fits in your budget and how much you may be able to talk down a seller who's asking for an amount that's on the high side.[4]
- Keep in mind that listing prices may vary considerably based on mileage, condition, and availability, as well as other wild-card factors like custom parts.
- Online price guides like Cycle Trader and NADAguides (a J.D. Power associate) can also be useful for sizing up a buy, provided you can find the model you're looking for.[5]
[Edit]Evaluating a Bike's Condition - Note the number of miles on the odometer. There are no definitively "good" or "bad" readings in terms of mileage, as different bikes are built with different specs for different purposes. What's more important is to compare the bike's outward appearance to its recorded mileage. If they don't seem to line up, you may be better off exploring other options.[6]
- Try not to overanalyze. If it comes down to a toss-up between two bikes of the exact same model and one has $15,000-20,000 fewer miles on it, it's clearly the better deal.[7]
- Unless it's obviously in bad shape, don't be put off by a motorcycle with 30,000-50,000 miles on the engine. When properly cared for, many bikes have maximum mileages as high as some cars, so there's a good chance that it still has plenty of road time left in it.
- Take stock of the bike's general appearance. Look the bike over top to bottom and front to back, paying particular attention to the main components like the frame, headstock, fenders, side covers, and windshield. A little bit of wear and tear isn't uncommon on older bikes, but for the most part, all of the chrome and paint should be clean, shiny, and free of rust, and there should be no dents, dings, scratches, or other visible signs of damage.[8]
- Bring a flashlight along with you in case you're forced to perform your inspection in low light. A multimeter can also come in handy for testing the voltage output of older bikes with batteries that haven't been changed in a while.[9]
- Be wary of bikes that look like they haven't been washed in a while. A little dust and dirt may not seem like a big deal, but it could point to neglect elsewhere.
- Climb on the motorcycle to try out the suspension. Straddle the seat and bounce up and down gently. The forks, or the pronged pieces connecting the front wheel to the frame, should absorb the motion and return to their original position quickly and quietly. By contrast, the rear shocks should hold firm, preventing the back of the bike from dipping too much.[10]
- Grinding, squeaking, and poor impact absorption, along with obvious visible damage like scrapes, cracks, dings, and rust, are all evidence of a suspension system that's taken a lot of abuse.
- Keep your eyes peeled for oil coming from the shocks or struts—it might be coming from a broken seal.[11]
- Examine the tires for excessive or uneven wear. It's totally normal for the center third of each tire to be a little smoother than the surrounding areas. Flat spots or significant off-center wear, however, could be due to bad riding habits, such as hard braking or skidding. Damage like this not only weakens the tire but places unnecessary strain on other parts of the bike that are not as cheap or easy to replace.[12]
- Similarly, blunt or diagonal scuffs could indicate alignment issues.
- Inspect the seats and other hard-wearing areas to look for deterioration. Materials like leather and rubber can deteriorate fairly quickly, especially if the previous owner did a lot of riding. A torn seat or loose footpeg doesn't necessarily mean that the bike is a junker. However, if all of the main points of contact are beat up and there's also noticeable wear or damage to the frame and surrounding areas, it means that it's likely seen better days.[13]
- If the bike you're appraising has saddlebags, be sure to look through them inside and out. Hard bags should be completely free of cracks or holes, while both the fabric and stitching of soft bags should be intact, with no rips, thin spots, or abrasions.
- Don't let some worn-out upholstery stop you from going ahead with a purchase if you're satisfied with the motorcycle's overall condition. These parts are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace.
- Check the fuel and oil tanks for rust or sediment. Unscrew the fuel cap on the body of the bike and use your flashlight to take a peek inside. There should be nothing floating in the fuel itself and no rust or corrosion on the walls of the tank. Next, note the color of the oil, which is usually visible through a sight glass on one side of the engine. If it's clean and syrupy, you're good. If it's dark, it may have been some time since it was last changed.[14]
- If you can see shiny metallic flakes suspended in the oil, the bike is a dud. This means that the spent oil has been left to sit for so long that it's eating away at the oil chamber from within.
- Don't be tempted to skip this part of the inspection thinking that you'll just change out the oil and fuel later. These fluids are the lifeblood of a motorcycle, and play a major role in the machine's overall performance and condition.
- Remove the seat to confirm that the internal wiring is in good shape. You don't have to be an experienced technician to be able to tell if something is amiss in the electrical compartment. Just take a quick peek to see whether everything looks like it's securely connected and in its proper place. Ideally, each of the wires should still have their original factory connectors, or a suitable aftermarket replacement, if they've been worked on at some point.[15]
- There's a lot more to a motorcycle's electrical system than just the battery. It also includes the alternator, rectifier/regulator headlight, fog lights, and any additional modules you may have hooked up, such as a built-in GPS unit or garage door opener.
- Test the voltage of the battery and look for a reading between 10.5 and 12. While you've got the seat off, hook up your multimeter to the battery's positive and negative terminals to see how much juice it has. It should put out around 12 volts while the bike is off, and no less than 10.5 while it's running. If you get anything lower for either phase of the test, consider it a red flag.[16]
- If you don't have a multimeter, kickstart the bike (or ask the owner to start it) and listen to the way the engine cranks. If it's slow to turn over, or if the headlight dims momentarily, it means that the battery isn't providing enough power to feed the starter or alternator.
- A dead battery is also a dead giveaway that a motorcycle hasn't been ridden in a while, and might also hint that it's got other problems related to disuse.
- Take the bike out for a test ride. First, start the engine and listen for any unusual noises, such as creaking, rattling, or grinding. If there are no apparent problems, ease your way onto a well-maintained stretch of road that offers safe conditions. Pay close attention to the way the bike handles acceleration, turns, braking, and shifting. Everything should feel smooth, stable, and responsive.[17]
- If the seller is reluctant to let you test the bike on your own, see if they'd be willing to let you hop on as a passenger, or at least watch and listen from a close distance to get a sense of how it rides.
- Don't forget to bring your driver's license and insurance card along with you on your test ride. It's also a good idea to come prepared with a helmet and other safety gear in case your seller doesn't have these things available.[18]
- Talk to a local dealership about scheduling a detailed inspection. Even if you decide to buy your bike from a private party, it's wise to have it looked over by a third party before you make any kind of agreements. Most dealerships and small cycle shops are happy to serve as a middleman in private sales for a small service fee. Spending a few extra dollars now could save you a considerable amount of time, money, and labor in the future.[19]
- If the owner seems hesitant to get another party involved, it could be because the bike has issues that they don't want you to see.
- Requesting an independent inspection is especially important if you're buying online and aren't able to examine the bike in person.[20]
[Edit]Completing Your Purchase - Scan the bike's VIN number for errors or inconsistencies. A vehicle identification number, or VIN number, is a unique serial number used to legally identify a vehicle. On most motorcycles, you'll find the VIN number stamped onto the steering neck section of the frame, just behind the headlight. Check this number against the number on the official title to make sure that they're a match.[21]
- Never do business with a seller that doesn't have the vehicle's title on hand. While it's not a guarantee that a bike is stolen, it's definitely not worth the risk.
- In rare instances, VIN numbers can be modified or forged for criminal reasons. If something about the VIN number looks fishy, make it a point to have it inspected by a qualified professional at a nearby dealership.
- Ask to see the motorcycle's service records or receipts. Responsible owners almost always hold onto documents showing their bike's service history. If the owner is the do-it-yourself type, see if they've kept a logbook or similar informal record indicating how much work they've put into the bike over the years.[22]
- A long service history isn't necessarily a bad thing—in some cases, it may actually suggest that the owner has taken very good care of the bike. What's more important is to take a close look at what's listed there (and what's not) and make sure that they've been maintaining the big stuff.
- If you decide to buy through a dealership, they should be able to pull up a full service record for any of their vehicles since the time it arrived on the lot.
- Keep your budget in mind while negotiating the final price. Study retail pricing guides or read through classified ads to get an idea of the bike's market value. Then, put those numbers side-by-side with your approximate budget to come up with an exact amount that you'd be willing to spend. Most used motorcycles don't end up selling for their initial asking price, so don't be afraid to haggle a bit to bring the number down to something more agreeable for your wallet.[23]
- When it comes time to make an offer, be realistic. Lowballing the seller may just insult them and make them less willing to compromise.
- You can work out the payment details with the seller after you've agreed on a price. Make sure you're both clear about the terms of the transaction, as they'll be recorded in the vehicle's bill of sale.[24]
- Fill out a bill of sale to have the vehicle's title legally transferred to you. The seller should provide you with a formal bill of sale form, which can be printed online or obtained from your area DMV. This form will document the make, model, and VIN number of the bike, as well as a precise odometer reading and the details of the financial transaction between you and the previous owner. The previous owner will need to sign the title over to you in order to finalize the sale. Don't forget to make an appointment at your local DMV office to apply for a new set of tags once the bike is officially yours.[25]
- In some states and territories, it may be necessary to have your bill of sale signed by a licensed notary.
- Bring all of the relevant legal paperwork with you to the DMV, including a copy of the bill of sale, and be prepared to pay a small transfer fee. Fees vary by location, but you can expect to pay around $20-30, on average.[26]
- Ask to see and test ride the bike while it's still cold. It's easy to hide issues with the engine once it's had a little time to warm up.
- Make sure you have active, up-to-date motorcycle insurance before you take your new bike out for a joyride.[27]
- Take good care of your motorcycle—keep it clean, stay on top of regular maintenance, and try to catch mechanical issues before they become a problem.[28] Not only will some TLC keep your bike roadworthy, it will also help you fetch a better price for it if you decide to let it go in the future.
[Edit]Warnings - Resist the temptation to buy more bike than you can handle—always ride within the limits of your skills and experience.
- If you have any reservations about the safety of the vehicle you're looking at, walk away. It's not worth risking your life just to score a sweet deal.
- If you don't already have your own safety gear, now is the time to invest in a set. It won't matter how safe your motorcycle is if you yourself aren't properly protected.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
How to Hockey Skate Posted: 28 Oct 2019 09:00 AM PDT While hockey skating is different than figure skating or speed skating, many of the basic techniques are similar. Before you try to skate on ice with a pair of hockey skates, you'll first want to spend some time practicing how to balance on the edges of your skates' blades. Once you're comfortable balancing in your skates, go ahead and try stepping onto the ice. The most important thing to remember when you're skating on ice is to keep your center of gravity low by bending your knees. [Edit]Learning How to Balance - Try standing in your skates on solid ground before you move to the ice. After you slip on your skates and lace them up, stand up in them to get a feel for how to maintain your balance. When first starting out, use a chair or other stable object to pull yourself up and lean on. As you become more confident, gradually shift your weight to your blades and try to maintain your balance without holding onto the chair.[1]
- Try not to be embarrassed about using a chair or other object to help yourself stand up in your skates. Using a chair will help you learn how to balance in your skates more quickly and help keep you from falling over.
- Practice standing on a soft surface, rather than a hard surface, to avoid damaging your skate's blades.
- Practice leaning on the 2 edges of your skates. If you look at the end of your skate's blade, you'll see that its bottom is curved inward in the middle and that the blade touches the ground on its 2 outside edges. Once you've become comfortable standing in your skates, try to lean in them so that you're standing on just 1 of the 2 edges on each blade.[2]
- Practice leaning on both the inside edges and the outside edges and switching back and forth between the 2 edges.
- Keep a chair, or other stable object, nearby so that you can catch yourself if you lose your balance.
- Distinguishing between these edges is important because you'll use them for different skating motions.
- Bend your knees and stay low when you step on the ice. Staying low to the ground will help you keep your balance on the ice. If you stand ramrod straight, your center of gravity will be higher, which will make it more likely that you'll fall over.[3]
- Keep your chest and head up and centered to keep your balance.
- Keep your skates shoulder-width apart for a stable base. Maintaining a wide stance will also help you keep your balance. If you skate with your feet closer together, you're more likely to topple over. A stance wider than shoulder-width, meanwhile, increases the risk that your skates will slide out from under you.[4]
- To help remind yourself to keep your feet in the proper position, imagine that 2 long rods are tied to your skates and shoulders.
- Lean on your skates' inside edges to keep your skates from sliding. If you feel your skates sliding to the outside, you can stop this by leaning on the inside edges of your skates. Transfer your weight to your skates' inside edges just like you practiced before stepping on the ice.[5]
[Edit]Moving on the Ice - Position your right skate at a 45-degree angle before pushing off. With your knees bent and your skate leaning on its inside edge, point your toe outward. Keeping your skate at a 45-degree angle is necessary to give your push enough power to give you the speed you need.[6]
- Aim your non-pushing left skate in the direction you want to move. Before pushing off, make sure your left-foot skate is in the right position. Keep your knee bent and your skate pointed where you want to go.[7]
- If you don't aim your skate in the direction you're pushing, you may trip.
- Push back on your angled skate to glide forward. Once you've gotten your 2 skates in their proper positions, push back. The harder you push back, the faster you will glide forward.[8]
- If you're just starting out, push back with gentle force so you can get a feel for the motion.
- Bring your right leg back under your body as you glide. After you push off and are gliding across the ice, bend the knee of your outstretched right leg to get it back into the starting position. The faster you bring it back under your body, the sooner you'll be able to start another push.[9]
- As you glide across the ice, keep your left leg bent so you can keep your balance.
- Push off with your left skate to continue gliding across the ice. Once your right leg is back under your body, angle your left skate 45 degrees in the same way you did before with your right skate. Then, push back just as you did before to continue gliding.[10]
- Repeat the above steps to continue skating across the ice. Once you become comfortable with the motions of skating, you can gradually increase your speed by pushing back harder and pulling the outstretched leg back under your body more quickly. Remember to keep your knees bent and stay low as you push off and glide.[11]
- Turn by leaning on the edges of your skates. When turning, keep your skates approximately shoulder-width apart to give yourself a stable base. Lead with your right foot to turn right and your left foot to turn left. Position your stick and hands in front of you to maintain balance.[12]
[Edit]Skating Backward - Start in a basic athletic stance. Keep your skates shoulder-width apart and bend your knees over the caps of your skates. Make sure your head and chest are up and square to the ice. Lean slightly forward in your stance so that your body weight is centered over the balls of your feet.[13]
- If your weight is centered around your heels, you're more likely to fall when you try to skate backwards.
- Push off the barriers when first learning how to skate backwards. Once you're in an athletic stance, put both of your hands on the barriers. Then, push off to get a sense of what it feels like to glide backwards across the ice.[14]
- Remember to keep your weight centered over the balls of your feet as you push off the barriers so that you don't topple over.
- Continue to push off the barriers until you feel confident gliding backward.
- Propel yourself backward with the inside edges of your blades. Once you feel comfortable gliding backward on the ice, you can try to push yourself back without the aid of the barriers. To do this, push the inside edges outward and then bring them back inside, as if you're tracing the shape of a lemon with your skates.[15]
- Start slowly and then gradually speed up once you feel more comfortable and confident doing this motion.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
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