| How to Get Rid of Burn Scars Posted: 12 Nov 2019 12:00 AM PST Burn scars are the elevated, fibrous tissue left behind after you've received a serious first- or second-degree burn. If the scar tissue is relatively light, remove it with a moisturizing cream or silicone gel sheets. For scars left by more serious burns, try removing them through massage therapy or, for very deep or large scars, through surgery. In the case of more serious scarring (e.g., from third-degree burns), you won't be able to fully remove the scar from your body, but you may be able to lighten the scar's appearance. [Edit]Applying Topical Treatments - Use an over-the-counter moisturizing cream if the scar itches. Burn scars are often itchy. If you scratch them with your fingernails, the scar may tear open or bleed. Instead, apply an OTC moisturizer to the scar. Apply the cream 2–3 times a day by gently massaging it into the scarred area. Select a fragrance-free moisturizer to avoid agitating the burn scar and, for the same reason. Avoid medicated anti-itch creams.[1]
- Moisturizers are great to use while the burn scar is still fresh. They'll help the scar recede and prevent it from growing large and unsightly. However, do wait until any blistering has healed before applying a moisturizer to the scar.
- Put an emollient cream on the scar to protect it from damage. Once any blisters on the skin have healed, the scar won't be at risk of or breaking open. Wait another 3-4 days until the scar tissue stops feeling tender. At this point, apply an emollient cream at least once per day.[2] Emollient creams will moisturize the scar and help it reabsorb into the surrounding skin. They'll also reduce redness and protect the scar tissue from being damaged.[3]
- Emollient creams are heavier and thicker than moisturizers, although not as heavy as an ointment.
- Purchase an OTC emollient cream at any large drugstore or pharmacy.
- Keep the burned tissue out of the sun. The ultraviolet rays produced by the sun can darken the color of your scar, making it much more visible. To keep the scar from darkening, use clothing and sunscreen to protect the scar from sunlight.[4] Practical steps you can take include:
- Wearing a large-brimmed hat if the burn is on your face or neck.
- Wearing loose clothing that covers the scarring if it's on your body.
- Applying sunscreen (at least 30 SPF) to the burn if you can't cover it with clothing.
- Apply silicone gel sheets to second-degree burn scars. Silicone gel sheets hold medical silicone gel against the burn scar, which has been proven to help lighten and remove scar tissue. The sheets are adhesive, and will stay against your skin once you press them firmly into place. Purchase silicone gel sheets at any pharmacy or drugstore. Since they aren't medicated, you won't need a prescription.[5] For best effects, keep the gel sheet on for 12 hours at a time.[6]
- In order for the silicone gel to work, it's important that you keep the burn scar and surrounding skin clean. Wash your burn scar with soap and water before you apply the silicone gel sheet. If you don't, you'll trap irritants and bacteria under the gel sheet and risk infecting the scar.
- Do not apply silicone gel sheets to an open burn blister.
[Edit]Removing Scars with Massages and Lasers - Meet with a doctor or burn therapist to discuss your options. If you've tried to get rid of burn scars with OTC creams and silicone gel sheets but not had any luck, you need to meet with a medical professional. Start by talking with your general practitioner, who may refer you to a dermatologist or burn specialist.[7]
- These professionals can help you figure out the best course of action for your particular burn scars.
- Receive weekly massages to loosen and shrink the scar. Receiving a massage from a professional massage artist will stretch and loosen the burned skin. This will make the scar tissue more flexible and less sensitive, and will also allow the scar to lighten in color.[8] Ideally, receiving massages over a long period of time (e.g., 6 months) will lighten the scar tissue enough that it's no longer visible.
- If you've seen a burn-scar therapist, ask them to recommend a massage artist who has worked with burn victims before.
- Perform massages on yourself at home if your doctor allows. Massage treatments can be expensive, and often the massage techniques used are fairly straightforward. If it's alright with your doctor or burn specialist, once you've received 3–5 professional massages, begin massaging yourself at home. Common techniques include stretching, rolling, and kneading the burned area(s). You can learn these techniques by watching your massage therapist perform them on your burn scars.[9]
- If the burn scar is in an area that you cannot reach, ask a friend or family member to massage you.
- Ask about laser treatments to remove large, dark scarring. Large scars that comprise hairless, shiny, raised skin can be tough to remove. One of the common methods of lightening them is through laser treatments. The application of lasers may remove the scars' dark red color and soften the scar tissue, although it may take 1-2 weeks before you begin to see results. Laser treatments can also decrease pain and itching caused by the scar.[10]
- Talk with your doctor or burn-scar therapist to find a doctor who can perform the laser scar removal. The therapist may recommend that you receive laser treatments in addition to—or instead of—massages.
- While combining laser treatments with massage won't necessarily help you get rid of your scar tissue any faster, the added massages will help loosen the scar tissue in ways that laser treatments won't.
[Edit]Getting Rid of Scars with Injections and Surgery - Consider steroid injections to reduce raised, thick burn scars. Thick, dense scars that won't shrink with massage or laser therapy can often be treated with steroid injections. When steroids are injected directly into scar tissue, they shrink the size of the scar and soften the tissue, often over a period of 5-7 days. Ask your doctor if steroid injections will help get rid of your burn scar.[11] These injections can be administered by your general practitioner or by a burn-scar specialist.
- Thick, raised, smooth burn scars are medically referred to as "keloid" scars. In some cases, keloid scars may expand and grow past the limits of the initial burn.
- Ask your burn therapist about surgery if other methods aren't effective. In the case of severe or widespread scarring (e.g., from third-degree burns), surgery may be the only means of removing the scarred tissue. In most cases, surgery is performed to increase the burn victim's range of motion, since large patches of scar tissue can restrict movement.[12]
- However, surgery can also have cosmetic benefits by reducing the darkness and size of burn scars.
- Discuss the types of surgery available. Depending on the type and severity of your burn scars, your burn therapist may recommend different types of surgery. For example, to increase the mobility of the burned skin and lessen the scar's appearance, the therapist may recommend a Z-plasty. Or, if the scarred skin needs to be fully replaced, they'll suggest a skin flap or a fat graft. In a skin flap surgery, the surgeons will remove healthy skin (along with muscle and fatty tissue) from a non-burned part of your body and graft it over the burn scar. For a fat graft, the surgeon will remove fat from a non-burned part of your body and insert it beneath the burn scar.[13]
- Other types of surgery often performed on burn scars include tissue expansion and dermabrasion.
- Performing a tissue expansion allows doctors to stretch out the skin beneath your scar tissue and, eventually, to scrape off the scar tissue, leaving healthy skin tissue in its place. In a dermabrasion, the doctor will scrape off the top layer of your burn scar to smooth the scar's overall appearance.
- The likelihood of a burn scarring is related to how much time it takes to heal. Burns that take less than 14 days (2 weeks) to heal are unlikely to scar, while burns that take longer than 21 days (3 weeks) to heal are almost guaranteed to scar. Burns that take between 14 and 21 days to heal may or may not scar.[14]
[Edit]Warnings - Although it's rare, some people have allergic reactions to silicone gel. If your skin burns or turns red after you've applied the silicone gel, remove the sheet immediately and visit your doctor. Also, don't apply any medicated creams while you're using silicone gel sheets.[15]
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Get Glitter Eye Shadow to Stick Posted: 11 Nov 2019 04:00 PM PST Glitter is a fun way to make a dramatic statement with your eye makeup. The problem, though, is getting it to stay put. Thankfully there are a few new products that make it fast and easy to get the glitter to adhere perfectly to your eyes and stay there all night. If you don't have one of these products yet, but really want to use your glitter eyeshadow, you can make your own primer using items you probably have on hand. [Edit]Applying a Glitter Primer - Purchase an eyeshadow primer at your local department store. Look specifically for glitter primer. You can use a regular pigment primer, but glitter primer works the best because it is specially formulated for getting glitter to stick and stay.[1]
- There are a wide range of products that are priced to fit any budget. Glitter primers typically range from about $7.00 - $20.00, and can be purchased at the cosmetic counter at your local department store or at a drugstore.
- Brush some primer onto your eyelid after applying your regular makeup. The primer can be put on top of existing pigment, so don't worry about messing up your eyeshadow color. After you have applied your eyeshadow, use a flat shader brush to gently smooth the glitter primer onto your eyelid.[2]
- The glitter will adhere everywhere the primer is applied, so make sure you only put the primer where you want the glitter to be.
- If the primer is for use with regular eyeshadow, then put it on before you apply your other eye makeup.
- Sprinkle some glitter onto the lid of its container or another flat surface. Sprinkle just enough glitter for what you need. It's better to start off with less and sprinkle more out if you need to. This helps you avoid wasting glitter or having to deal with trying to dump it back into the container.[3]
- Sprinkling the glitter onto another surface allows you to mix glitter colors together to create custom shades, and also gives you better control so you don't get too much glitter on your brush.
- Dab some glitter onto a flat shader brush and apply it to your eyelid. Softly pat the glitter onto your eyelid. Pressing too hard or brushing it across your eyelid can smear the rest of your makeup and make the glitter too thin.[4]
- Dab on extra layers until you reach the desired look.
- Remove glitter fallout by gently pressing tape on the glitter specs. Take a small strip of transparent tape and gently press it against your face where the excess glitter has fallen. If you make sure to press lightly, the tape will remove the specs of glitter without ruining your makeup.[5]
- You can use other types of tape or sticky items like labels to remove the glitter fallout, but be careful not to use anything too tacky (like duct tape) because it can ruin your makeup and even damage your skin.
- If you only have super sticky tape, press the strip of tape against your hand a few times to remove some of the tackiness before using it on your face.[6]
- If you don't have any tape, then just apply a heavy layer of loose powder to your undereye area before you apply your eye makeup, and then use a fluffy brush to sweep away any glitter that falls onto this area.
[Edit]Using Other Common Beauty Products - Use lip balm or petroleum jelly if you are applying glitter only. Lip balm and petroleum jelly are just sticky enough for the glitter to adhere. Use a cotton swab to spread a thin layer of the product where you want the glitter to be on your eyelid.[7]
- Do not apply these products on top of eyeshadow because it will smear. Use them when you are applying glitter only.
- Make sure that you check the ingredients of any lip balm you decide to use on your eye area. Some of them contain salicylic acid, which is an eye irritant. Don't apply this type of lip balm to your eyelids.
- Use eyelash glue if you want to wear glitter on top of your eyeshadow. After you have applied your eyeshadow, use a small brush or cotton swab to gently spread a thin layer of eyelash glue over your eyelids. Only apply the glue where you want the glitter to stick.[8]
- Wait about 30 seconds to allow the glue to become tacky before dabbing on the glitter. If the glue is too wet, it can get messy; once the glue dries a little, it is much easier to work with.[9]
- Try eyeshadow cream if you want to color coordinate and adhere glitter. Choose an eyeshadow cream that matches the color of glitter you are using. Gold glitter on gold cream, and silver glitter on grey cream, are popular choices. Apply the eyeshadow cream as usual, then use a flat shader brush to dab the glitter on top.[10]
- Because eyeshadow cream isn't super sticky, start with a thin layer of glitter and add more layers until you get the desired look.[11]
- For a more blended look, dab a small amount of eye cream onto a cotton swab, then dip the cotton swab in the glitter and apply it to your eyelid.[12]
- Place tissue or a wool pad under your eyes when applying glitter to protect your foundation from fallout.
[Edit]Warnings - Keep your eyes closed when applying glitter to avoid loose specs from falling into your eyes and causing irritation or damage.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Build a Model Railroad Posted: 11 Nov 2019 08:00 AM PST Building a model railroad is like creating your own miniature empire. You'll have complete control over the features, enabling you to construct a modern design, a western design, or even one with fantastical elements. Building a railroad involves many skills and will develop your handiness doing things like mechanical and civil engineering, carpentry, electrical wiring, artistry, and more.[1] You'll need to start with a plan to ensure the best results, but once you have one, you can build the foundation and finish your railroad by laying the track and wiring it so it can run. [Edit]Planning Your Model Railroad - Assess the givens and druthers. The phrase "givens and druthers" comes from accomplished railroad modeler, John Allen.[2] It refers to the things that can't be changed when making your model, like the size or your room, budget, and so on.
- Make a list of these things on a piece of paper or a digital document to help keep these limitations in mind.
- Use an online document service, like a cloud based one or Google Docs, so you can check your planning elements easily with a phone or tablet.
- Choose your theme. The theme of your railroad includes its purpose, setting, the type of trains or equipment you want to use, and the service the train will provide (like transporting industrial goods or logs). These aspects will influence your planning and how you actually build your layout.[3]
- A long coal train, for example, might run through the mountains and carry coal from mines to power companies, steel mills, or residential areas, to provide heat for homes.
- Locale should also be taken into consideration. Locale includes things like region (East or West Coast, Mountain, etc.), specific towns, or general areas, like the plains of Kansas.
- The era in which your model train exists will also need to be decided. A model planned for the 1920s would use a steam engine. You won't have modern cars either, in this era.
- The season you set your model in will change setting drastically. Fall will need to have trees with leaves changing color, winter will need snow, and so on.[4]
- Determine the scale of your railroad. Grid paper is great for drawing out a to-scale design of your railroad. One of the simplest scales you can use is a 1-inch to 1-foot (2.5-cm to .3-m) ratio, where a 1-inch (2.5-cm) square on your grid paper equals (.3 m) in real life. When planning scale, keep in mind:
- The space available for your model.
- The amount of money you can invest in your model railroad. Larger models will be more expensive.
- The focus of your model. Scenery focused models will be much different from train focused ones.
- Your personal limitations. If you don't have good eyes or nimble fingers, smaller models might be unreasonable.[5]
- Identify the kind of display you intend. Display in railroad modeling refers to how you show off your model. You can arrange ceiling lights to point down on it, direct lighting to it from floor lamps, and so on. Should you be building your model for your own enjoyment, you might not want to devote a lot of time and money to display.
- Railroad models built for children and grandchildren might only require a limited display. Adjust your display needs with the purpose of your railroad.
- If you intend on adding to your railroad and make it part of a larger design, keep this in mind while planning your display.[6]
- Plan your track. There are many different styles you might use for your railroad track. Some common track designs include a simple oval, a figure eight pattern, and a barbell shape. You should have an overall idea for the plan of your track before drafting your track plan.[7]
- When first starting out, you'll likely want to keep your train level to minimize more complicated aspects of planning, like grade (steepness) and clearances.[8]
- Draft the track plan for your railroad. If this is your first time building a model railroad, you may want to use a prototype track plan. These are provided by companies and take a lot of the guesswork out of your track planning. Prototype track plans can also be used as an example from which you make your own design and can be purchased online or at hobby shops.
- Use grid paper when drawing up your track plan. Keep your track plan to scale with your real model so you don't have to make adjustments later on.
- You may find that some track plans that you thought would work in reality do not. This is not uncommon, but a prototype track plan will help prevent this.[9]
[Edit]Building the Foundation - Put together your benchwork. The bench is the surface on which your landscape will be made and your track laid. Model benchwork consists for three parts: the supporting structure, a platform or grid, and a sub-roadbed.
- Your supporting structure is a sturdy, reinforced frame on which your platform and sub roadbed sit upon.
- The platform forms the base of your model. This sits on the supporting structure or is attached to it, and the subroadbed is laid on top of it.
- The subroadbed is the topmost part of your benchwork. This is where your model layout will be built. Use 3 to 4 sheets of extruded foam on top of your platform to make the subroadbed.
- Your benchwork could be as simple as a 4x8 piece of plywood or 3x6 ft (.91x1.8 m) door on top of a folding table or old wooden table. Lay your subroadbed on top, and the benchwork will be done.[10]
- Create a backdrop, if desired. Your backdrop doesn't have to be a work of art. A blue wall in the background can give the impression of a blue sky backdrop. You could also paint a mural or buy/print a pre-made backdrop.
- Make sure your backdrop is consistent with your theme choices. Failing to do so can make your model look less realistic.
- For a city nighttime scene, you might have a mostly dark backdrop with the silhouettes of skyscrapers on it.
- If you're planning on making a model in a mountainous setting, you might have larger peaks drawn on a backdrop of blue sky.[11]
- Plot out your track on the benchwork. This can be done either by drawing out your track plan on your benchwork or by laying loose tracks on it. Once your track is drawn or laid out, sketch out where you'll be placing surface features, like mountains, rivers, roads, buildings, and so on.
- Although a sketch on the benchwork of structure placement should be sufficient, making simple cardboard mockups can help prevent planned structures from getting in the way of your track.[12]
- Complete the terrain. The terrain is the contoured surface of your model that represents the ground. This is usually made by shaping chicken wire or screen material to fit your vision for shape of the terrain. Cover this with wet plaster cloth, allow it to dry, then paint the exterior.
- Plaster cloth can be found at hobby shops and may even be available at hardware stores. If you lack plaster cloth, use paper towels soaked in plaster.
- There are many unique ways of creating the terrain of your model. You can cover mounds of wadded up newspaper in plaster cloth, use foam sheeting similarly, and utilize many other techniques.[13]
[Edit]Finishing the Model - Lay the track. You may have to build up your track a little on curves, as these will be likely places your train can derail. S-curves especially, if you have them, can be tricky. Make sure you have enough clearance in your curves to fit your longest train cars. Cork or foam model train roadbed should be used under tracks and can be bought at hobby or hardware stores.
- If you're just starting out modeling, it can be difficult to know if you have enough clearance for long cars. Before installing your track, use your hands to guide your train around curves to see if it fits.
- Track installation may vary, but in many cases, you'll need to solder rail joints to connect them. Avoid soldering turnouts, where a train transfers from one line of track to another. These often need to be replaced.
- Use a metal file to smooth bumps or ridges on your track that may cause a wheel to jump the tracks or get stuck.[14]
- Wire your track. Attach feeder wires as indicated by your model set. In most cases, feeder wires will connect to the bottom or outside of your track rails at 3-foot (.91 m) intervals. A beginner set will likely come with a power converter, but more advanced sets may requires you to choose between DC (Direct Current) and DCC (Digital Command Control) power.
- Starter model train sets will likely come with a control panel, but DIY models may require you to build one. Search online for tutorials on how to wire one that is simple and organized.
- Add the scenery. This includes almost all surface features, like trees, rocks, tunnels bushes, roads, bridges, houses, and so on. Use glue to attach scenery pieces after the terrain is formed. Use paint to represent flat surface features, like rivers and roads.
- Keep perspective in mind when making your scenery. For example, large trees should go in the foreground and small ones in the background to create the illusion of distance.
- Dioramas are a 3D representation of a scene, like a house. These are great additions and can add a sense of realism to your model.[15]
- You can buy scenery props at most hobby shops and craft stores. There are also plenty of resources online that illustrate how to make your own.
- If you know someone who already has a layout, it might be helpful to ask if you can have a look at it to give you a better understanding of its construction when it comes to making your own.
- Crowdsource ideas and pick the brains of more experiences modelers at local hobby shops or model train clubs.
- Planning details, like your givens and druthers, themes, supply lists, and so on, might be best suited to an online document service, like a cloud one or Google Docs. Using these services will make your planning details more accessible. You can even access these docs with your phone.
[Edit]Warnings - Always use care when operating tools, especially a solder gun which gets very hot. Failing to use these properly could result in injury or damage to your home.
- Be careful when wiring your set and hooking up power to it. Poor wiring can result in you getting shocked or it could result in an electrical fire.
- Model railroading can be an expensive hobby. Carefully planning can help prevent unexpected costs from cropping up.
- If you are under 10 years of age, ask an adult to help you in constructing your model.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - A model train set (or its components parts, including metal and wiring for the rails, a model train, a transformer to power the train, etc.)
- Carpentry tools
- General purpose tools (like a hammer, screwdriver, nails, etc.)
- Soldering gun (and solder)
- Wood (for making the benchwork, like 4x8 piece of plywood)
- Art supplies (paintbrushes, paints, etc.)
- Bench work supplies (like chicken wire and plaster cloth)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Curl Your Hair with a Flat Iron Posted: 09 Nov 2019 12:00 AM PST Curling hair with a straightener can create full, bouncy curls that won't look like ringlets. It takes a little practice, but once you get the technique down, you will look amazing and practically red-carpet ready. Follow along to learn how to get the beautiful curls you've always wanted – without using a curling iron. [Edit]Prepping Your Hair - Start with clean and dry hair. Make sure to start with completely clean and dry hair. Wet hair won't curl at all and damp hair won't curl as well. Even if you have one of those magical wet-to-dry hair straighteners, it's best if you have dry hair. Dirty hair also won't hold its shape very well, so make sure you've washed it in the past 24 hours.[1]
- If you're blow drying your hair first, use mousse. The extra volume will keep your hair from looking too flat as you curl it.
- Use a thin flat iron. Your straightener should be about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) in width from plate to handle and have rounded edges, otherwise it won't form smooth curls. A flat, paddle-style iron also won't do curls. It'll be much harder to hold and wrap if you have this kind of straightener and the hair won't want to stay in the right place.[2]
- Make sure you've got a good quality flat iron. The best work faster, make your hair smoother, and do less damage than poor quality irons. They can have a big impact on things like shine and the consistency of curls.[3]
- Heat the iron up to the minimum temperature you need for your hair. If your hair is fine and thin, stick to the low end of the dial at below 300 degrees. Normal hair can be ironed at 300 to 380. You can turn it up to 350 to 400 if your hair tends to be thick, coarse, or frizzy.[4]
- Apply heat protectant. Applying a heat protectant or a thermal spray creates a protective barrier between the hair and the iron so that the hair doesn't "frizzle" and burn. Spray all over your hair – no need to comb, as it should mist on and dry quickly.[5]
- If you have thick hair, spray it on each section before you tackle it. If you just spray it on the top of all your hair, it won't hit the bottom layers.
- Also be sure to comb out any tangles in your hair before applying heat.
- Part your hair into sections. You'll have better luck curling your hair if you section it instead of trying to attack the whole mess at once.[6] In general, the thicker your hair the more sections you'll need to do. Tie up the hair above your ears and put it in a bun on the top of your head. It needs to be out of the way.
- Start at the bottom of your scalp, close to your ears and neck. Leave down as much hair as you can work with for your first "layer" of curls. A good rule is to work with 1 to 2 inch sections at a time. Pin up the rest.[7]
- Once that layer is done, you'll unclip your hair and let down another layer. Again, clip up what you can't curl right now. Keep curling in layers.
[Edit]Exploring Different Techniques - Alternate flicks and curls. Flicks and curls are simply two slightly different ways to curl your hair with a flat iron. Try both to see what you like.
- Flicks: Start half-way down the length of hair, clamp the iron closed and turn it back on itself in a half turn. You should now have created a U-shape with the hair and the iron. Keeping the iron on that half-turn angle, slowly move it down the hair shaft to the end of the hair. The faster you move the iron, the less pronounced the curl/flick will be. If you like big soft flicks, slow down your iron.[8]
- Curls: Starting fairly close to the scalp (but not close enough to accidentally burn it), clamp the iron closed and turn it back on itself a half turn (the same as with flicks). Run the iron slowly down the hair shaft to the end. Again, the slower you move the iron, the tighter the curl. The faster you move the iron, the gentler the wave.[9]
- Make more pronounced curls by turning the straightener a full turn, instead of a half. With flicks and curls, you just rotated the hair straightener a half turn. If you want more ringlet-y, complete curls, rotate the straightener a full turn, turning the hair over onto itself, sort of creating a loop[10].
- Find out what your hair tends to do between the half and the whole turn. You may find that half is enough, or that a three-quarters turn is more ideal for you. What's more, certain days may be half-turn days, and other days will feel like full-turn days. It's up to you!
- Experiment with turning your straightener under and over. When you rotate your flat iron, whether it's a half-rotation or a full-rotation, you're confronted with a decision to make: to turn under and around or over and around. Neither is incorrect, though the curl will reverse with the change in angle. Which looks best on you?
- Try to be consistent. It's easy to curl one way on one side and then when you switch arms to inadvertently switch directions, too. If you do wind up accidentally doing this, you'll probably be the only one who notices your curls in are different directions.[11]
- On the other hand, alternating directions can also look great. You just have to be sure to use a consistent pattern throughout.
- Try flat waves. Once in a while, it feels high time to bring back 1995. Clamp your flat iron down on your hair and turn it up a half of a turn. Then, clamp it on the next bit of hair and turn it down a half of a turn. This technique will give you flat waves, almost like a finger wave. Repeat this process down the length of your hair.
- For these flat waves, you're clamping down on every bit of your hair. For curling, you simply curl at the top and slowly drag it down – kind of like curling ribbon on a gift or balloon.[12]
[Edit]Curling Your Hair - Add some hairspray. If your hair doesn't curl easily or doesn't hold a curl, put hairspray on sections immediately before you curl them. If you want your curls to hold their shape just how they immediately fall from the straightener, spritz a tiny bit of hairspray on the hair right before you curl it.[13]
- Be sure to use a non-aerosol working spray for this. Aerosols will create a sticky mess.
- Don't use too much hairspray, as well. Then it becomes stiff and crunchy, which is not the look you're aiming for.
- Grab the section of hair you want to curl. How much hair you include in each curl is up to you, but here are a few points to keep in mind:
- Smaller sections make smaller, tighter curls, as well as more of them. If you want a look that's closer to ringlets, keep your sections less than two inches wide.
- Larger sections result in bouncier, looser curls that look a little more natural. Use sections that are wider than two inches for big curls.[14]
- Mix it up. You don't have to stick completely to one size or another. For instance, you could do larger curls close to your face and the top of your head to create lift and volume, and tighter, more delicate curls underneath for support. Try it a few different ways and see what you like best.
- Use one of the above techniques. The above methods share the same basic principles: turn your hair straightener over itself, and lightly and slowly drag it down your hair. Clamp lightly keeping the hair on the straightener plates – not so hard it's difficult to move and not so lightly that the hair escapes.
- The variables you can switch up? Where you start on your hair (towards your scalp or towards the ends), how slowly you move the flat iron, and how much you rotate the flat iron. Experiment with these three variables to find the perfect look for you.
- You don't have to curl all your hair, either. A few strands that are straighter or just wavy can give you a natural, beach-y look.
- Finish up. You can leave your hair as-is when you're finished curling, or you can add an additional touch to wrap up the style you want.
- For looser curls: Gently run your fingers through your hair and tousle it. You'll get a little more volume, and a relaxed, natural look.[15]
- For more hold: Put a light mist of hairspray all over your curls to keep them sleek and tight throughout the day. If you live in a really humid area, consider using an anti-humidity spray as well.
- Don't hold for too long because otherwise your hair may burn and fray.
- Make sure your hair doesn't have knots in it.
- Steam rising from your hair is completely normal; it's just the heat protectant doing its job. However, if you smell burning hair or see singeing, remove the heat immediately and move faster or find a lower heat setting in the future.
- Ceramic straighteners tend to be better for the hair, as metal plates may damage the hair shaft.
- It is very important to use heat protectant when using heat-styling products on your hair. It will help your hair against breakage, fight frizz and keeps your hair healthy.
- If you don't have heat protectant, use coconut oil.
- Make sure your hair is clean. If it is greasy and dirty, the straightener can damage your hair.
- You may need someone to help you to do the hair at the back of your head to prevent you from getting burned.
- Practice your technique. It might not be perfect the first time, but you'll get it right eventually.
- For better results, straighten hair before curling.
- Your hair needs to be straight or wavy to do this. It won't work on curly hair unless it's first dried straight.
- Always use a heat protection spray on hair before curling it with curling irons. straighteners, or drying your hair.
- The tighter you hold the hair in the straighteners the more precise the curl can be.
[Edit]Warnings - Don't keep a flat iron on one section of hair for more than 7 to 10 seconds.
- Never straighten wet hair, unless you have straighteners that are made to do so.
[Edit]Related wikiHows
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário